tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87357204819054293002024-02-18T21:53:51.393-08:00Neulansilmä -- The Eye of the NeedleAikamatkoja menneisyyden vaatearkuille -- Time travels to bygone wardrobesElinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-72347344218927626002018-09-04T11:05:00.000-07:002018-09-07T02:10:21.349-07:00Viikinkinaisen asukokonaisuus --- My Viking ensemble<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">En oikeastaan harrasta rautakautta, mutta en silti voi olla ihailematta viikinkien ja muinaissuomalaisten komeita pukuja. Suomessa järjestetään kuitenkin vuosittain moni hienoja tapahtumia jotka sijoittuvat juuri rautakauteen, joten päätin tänä kesänä saattaa viikinkiaikaisen asukokonaisuuteni kuntoon, jotta voisin ottaa näihin paremmin osaa. Suomalaisen muinaispuvun esiliina ja peplos valmistuvat ehkä jossain vaiheessa...</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>I don't really do much iron age re-enactment or living history, but as a dress and textile nerd I can't help admiring the handsome clothing Iron Age Vikings and Finns used to wear. There are also many nice Iron Age events here, and that is why I finally decided to put my Viking gear in order. My Finnish Iron Age garb still needs an apron and the peplos....</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Alusmekot</span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Under tunics</i> </span></span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tämä Bocktenin miehen mekon kaavoilla valmistettu keltaruskea villamekko valmistui vuosia sitten. Villa on Medeltidsmoden karkeahkoa toimikasta. / <i>This brownish yellow wool dress is cut after the Swedish bocksten man's tunic. The coarse twill woven wool was bought from Medeltidsmode. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Villamekon alla minulla on samalla kaavalla leikattu pellavainen aluspaita, <i>serk</i>, jotka voidaan pitää myös sellaisenaan olkainmekon alla. Ohut ja tiheä valkaisematon pellava on Finkoniasta. Se on ommeltu pellavalangalla. / <i>Underneath I'm wearing a linen smock, </i>serk<i>, that can also be used alone with the aprondress. The thin but dense unbleached linen is from a Finnish shop called Finkonia. It's sewn with linen thread.</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Smokkr</span></span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Keltaisen mekon päälle puetaan sinisestä timanttikuvioisesta villasta valmistettu olkainmekko, <i>smokkr. </i>Mekko on ommeltu käsin villalangalla.<i> / On top I'm wearing a blue</i><i> diamond patterned wool aprondress, </i>smokkr. <i>The dress is handsewn with wool thread.</i> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Yhtään kokonaista olkainmekkoa ei ole säilynyt. Tutkijoiden teoriat mekkojen mallista ja leikkauksesta vaihtelevat. Ne perustuvat tekstiilifragmentteihin, koruihin ja niiden sijaintiin rautakautisen haudan vainajan jäännösten päällä, sekä joihinkin aikalaiskuviin. / <i>No complete surviving aprondress exists. There are different theories as to how they were constructed that are based on textile fragments, brooches, and their positioning on the body in the excavated graves, plus some pictorial evidence. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWiQLjmbFOJIulloA1Bm4elc-xwvFH18fQVAABDYO65yOucD9fYS-vhxh-m-2yhwjNVsJT7-RtCjBTHFMBP3IHokX91BogcdzFbCftQegw73OJNGzq5LcAStk5F1fKsywPUBTAWyZbAL8/s1600/henkselimekko+takaa.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWiQLjmbFOJIulloA1Bm4elc-xwvFH18fQVAABDYO65yOucD9fYS-vhxh-m-2yhwjNVsJT7-RtCjBTHFMBP3IHokX91BogcdzFbCftQegw73OJNGzq5LcAStk5F1fKsywPUBTAWyZbAL8/s640/henkselimekko+takaa.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Olkainmekkoni oli ollut enemmän tai vähemmän käyttövalmiina jo useamman vuoden. Se oli alunperin leikattu kolmesta palasta Nille Glaeselin kirjan kaavan mukaan. En kuitenkaan ollut tyytyväinen mekon istuvuuteen, joten laitoin sen palasiksi, lisäsin sivukappaleet etu ja takakappaleiden väliin ja istutin sen uudelleen. Siksi takakappaleet ovat tavallista kapeammat, mutta nyt mekko ainakin myötäilee notkoselkääni! /<i> My aprondress had been in more or less usable condition for years. It was originally cut after the three pieced pattern in Nille Glaesel's book. Since I'd never been happy with the fit and the general shape, I decided to take it apart, add side pieces between the front and the back pieces, and refit it. This is why the two back pieces are a bit too narrow, but at least now the dress follows the line of my swayback! </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Avokaulainen takki</span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Coat with a deep neckline</i> </span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">On
epäselvää käyttivätkö viikinkinaiset lainkaan kaftaanityyppisiä takkeja, kuten Birkan löytöjä tutkinut Inga Hägg on esittänyt.
Jotkin tutkijat, kuten esimerkiksi Thor Ewing pitävät tätä
epätodennäköisenä ja ovat ennemminkin sitä mieltä, että naiset käyttivät
kaftaanin sijaan suorakaiteen muotoista vaippaa, kuten muinaissuomalaiset naiset. Tulkinnan varaa siis löytyy!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>It's not clear wether
Viking women wore a caftan type garment at all, as Inga Hägg who studied the finds from Birka has suggested. For example, Thor Ewing finds this proposition unlikely. He thinks that women wore a
rectangular cloak instead, like Iron Age Finnish women. That been said, there is clearly room for interpretation!</i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Takissa on kaksi etukappaletta, kaksi sivukiila molemmilla puolilla, yksi takakappale ja yksi takakiila, sekä hihat. / </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The coat consists of two front pieces, two side gores on both sides, one back piece, one back gore, and the sleeves. </i></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-a-hHkum-07CrICgyzO1ihXsI1q0VY8NuWUFS_TGr-G4-R6iF36J4JtEWCQCWW7oPqbZgErAxrBin08KONH3dIMTXx5pLNmw1ho1lNA0SsuTU1Lzaf6c3kZq_DPypbAM5pFaquAVm0Ys/s1600/40747584_340241209710331_4884737271485431808_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1147" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-a-hHkum-07CrICgyzO1ihXsI1q0VY8NuWUFS_TGr-G4-R6iF36J4JtEWCQCWW7oPqbZgErAxrBin08KONH3dIMTXx5pLNmw1ho1lNA0SsuTU1Lzaf6c3kZq_DPypbAM5pFaquAVm0Ys/s640/40747584_340241209710331_4884737271485431808_n.jpg" width="458" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tämän takin kaavan lähtökohtana oli Nille Glaeselin kirjan kaava - tosin ilman hassuja lisäkiiloja. Täytyy sanoa, että jouduin muokkaamaan kaavaa aikalailla saadakseni sen toimimaan. /<i> The starting point for the pattern came from Nille Glaesel's book - although I skipped the funny extra gores. I must say I had to make heavy changes to the pattern in order to make it work for me. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-pu8qrdw-TyNk5yo8-pSAJbhyGCmKJqOtDB3-DyxvT7kx9PVl7onYrAIQj-bHnZ4L0bNEqLZ4VeEaRrdcBIJ9tfGepnF1tihoad8fj6ZUMMpk-JAngWzHFsUmYYlAiDhdGrQ6mWT09Y/s1600/40772596_259636398216228_2211874618040385536_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1220" data-original-width="1600" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB-pu8qrdw-TyNk5yo8-pSAJbhyGCmKJqOtDB3-DyxvT7kx9PVl7onYrAIQj-bHnZ4L0bNEqLZ4VeEaRrdcBIJ9tfGepnF1tihoad8fj6ZUMMpk-JAngWzHFsUmYYlAiDhdGrQ6mWT09Y/s640/40772596_259636398216228_2211874618040385536_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Uusi
takki ja olkainmekon uudistus tehtiin vain neljässä ja puolessa
päivässä. Siitä syystä takin saumat on ommeltu koneella (koska joskus
vaatteen valmistuminen on tärkeämpää kuin 100% autenttisuus), lukuun
ottamatta hihojen kiinnitystä. Kaikki huolittelut on tehty käsin. / <i>The
new coat and the revamp of the aprondress were done in just four and
a half days. That's why the coat is partially machine sewn (beacause
there are times when it's more important to have a finished garment on
time, even if you have to compromise on it's authentisity), save for the
sleeves and the finishing touches. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUouBQJdhXNQA6BVWYJ7DMAjrmcC81HGCKLq_xF5qqcLLmBclt7cXTv7dZnjyuzR_gVWUfGdU1G7neYiyQn0065aPmfhWNcvpADSuS5RB9-KvUeDxhdQgmhIW2EbI2HYwWlnlIPyhlSU/s1600/40809272_685824598451094_1054237625889587200_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1059" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyUouBQJdhXNQA6BVWYJ7DMAjrmcC81HGCKLq_xF5qqcLLmBclt7cXTv7dZnjyuzR_gVWUfGdU1G7neYiyQn0065aPmfhWNcvpADSuS5RB9-KvUeDxhdQgmhIW2EbI2HYwWlnlIPyhlSU/s400/40809272_685824598451094_1054237625889587200_n.jpg" width="263" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijF9haMYH3d6HycRerDl_mwi7lZYvTAHEMsJayU-wgl41dOtg_FZIvzBHTjykk5exYb_53-8yva7Ty4bP3RYQhmWspLmUBIX2fFyVhemr6oI2C2sHxZ6sTdl7UO6c3tfcPYBtN1y6tYeg/s1600/40946762_236529377207312_6057723506089525248_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="495" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijF9haMYH3d6HycRerDl_mwi7lZYvTAHEMsJayU-wgl41dOtg_FZIvzBHTjykk5exYb_53-8yva7Ty4bP3RYQhmWspLmUBIX2fFyVhemr6oI2C2sHxZ6sTdl7UO6c3tfcPYBtN1y6tYeg/s400/40946762_236529377207312_6057723506089525248_n.jpg" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></h3>
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></i></h3>
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></i></h3>
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></i></h3>
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></i></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Korut ja asusteet</span></span></h3>
<h3>
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The jewellery and accessories</span></span></i></h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Metallikorut
ovat merkittävä osa viikinkinaisen asua: ne eivät ole pelkästään
koristeita, sillä niillä oli käytännöllinen funktio vaatteiden
kiinnittiminä. Kuvissa näkyvät pronssikorut on hankittu Historiska
Fyndistä. Tämä ruotsalainen yritys on erikoistunut arkeologisten
löytöjen pohjalta valmistettujen viikinkiaikaisten ja keskiaikaisten
metallikorujen valmistukseen ja myyntiin. Suosittelen! </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lasihelmien käyttötarkoitus sen sijaan vaikuttaa rajoittuneen koristautumiseen. Alimman
lasihelminauhan olen saanut lahjaksi mieheltäni ja se helmet perustuvat
ilmeisesti suomalaiseen hautalöytöön. Ylempään helminauhaan olen
pujotellut aikojen saatossa keräilemiäni rautakauden tyyliin
valmistettuja lasihelmiä. </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Metal jewellery
is an integral part of Viking womens clothing: they are not mere
decorations, since they're used to fasten the garments. My bronze
jewellery is from Historiska Fynd, a Swedish company specializing
in Viking and medieval jewellery that's based on archeological findings. I
highly recommend them! </i></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The glass beads on the other hand, seem to be used for decorative purposes. The beads on the bottom string are a gift
from my spouse, and they were made after a Finnish iron age burial find.
The upper string consists of random iron age style glass beads I've
collected over the years.</i> </span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAoo517RIqZAiHpt3ukBOk2L1aC78p6aGwPfIyGk8KiQuV9jSKzw5AsTOi28Rblj4rplA1PmZnjnMh1pJJMyNKZF6KhJSrTUam49wh0HP-iwP53hmalycKca1INaE4gzKg419I3QYpKE/s1600/korukollaasi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="940" data-original-width="1600" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwAoo517RIqZAiHpt3ukBOk2L1aC78p6aGwPfIyGk8KiQuV9jSKzw5AsTOi28Rblj4rplA1PmZnjnMh1pJJMyNKZF6KhJSrTUam49wh0HP-iwP53hmalycKca1INaE4gzKg419I3QYpKE/s640/korukollaasi.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPpz4zuQOmssmwB1nXR8Dz1VVXXFCW1g6lE59d22IsdScM1bPYiz5rIyMyGnQ3wt5a3-6PX2RyKro_W-Ropbq_rBpgCLHhTDWHrJ7rTNEgIarqHB-ekiwuhwbibnxtqLAaiPoNRl4fuK0/s1600/Laukkukollaasi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="1600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPpz4zuQOmssmwB1nXR8Dz1VVXXFCW1g6lE59d22IsdScM1bPYiz5rIyMyGnQ3wt5a3-6PX2RyKro_W-Ropbq_rBpgCLHhTDWHrJ7rTNEgIarqHB-ekiwuhwbibnxtqLAaiPoNRl4fuK0/s640/Laukkukollaasi.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Puusankainen laukku on saanut inspiraationsa mm. Haithabusta ja Skandinaviasta löytyneistä puujäänteistä. Puuosat ovat Mikken käsialaa. / <i>The bag with two wooden laths is inspired by the wooden fragments from Haithabu and other parts or Scandinavia. The wooden parts are made by Mikke.</i> Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i> </i> </span></span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Huput</span></span></h3>
<h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Hoods</i> </span></span></h3>
<h3>
</h3>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Skjoldehamnin löytöä mukailevat huput täydentävät asua. Niitä siunaantui kolme - kolmessa päivässä. </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">En rekonstruoinut hupun "<a href="https://www.pvv.org/~raaness/prosjekt_fritid/filer/sy_ferdig/2010_skjoldehamn/skjoldehamn_hood-w650.jpg" target="_blank">muotolaskoksia</a>"
enkä korvien korkuudella olevia naruja. Ehkäpä lisään ne myöhemmin
oranssiin huppuun... Eri väriset huput ovat myös siitä käteviä, että
niitä voi yhdistellä monin tavoin asun osien kanssa.<i> </i></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The hoods are inspired by the Skjoldehamn find and they complete the outfit. I somehow managed to make three of them - in three days. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>I did not reconstruct <a href="https://www.pvv.org/~raaness/prosjekt_fritid/filer/sy_ferdig/2010_skjoldehamn/skjoldehamn_hood-w650.jpg" target="_blank">the running stitches on the top part of the hood</a>
that are not exactley darts, but make the hood sit better on the
wearer. I also skipped the braided strings that should be attached at
ear level. Perhaps I'll add them later to the orange hood... All in all,
different colour hoods are handy when you want to combine them with
different parts of the outfit. </i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZOk4tOYp7dkZH3tzgMou0XVM7Xag09GwkSYmeAW3VjniqnTAbLWCw1CUcq52zIFBttvw7RRcwO9hws0aF1sFPxQIOsaJih-M0GeE9p9d2h-61FwD8exxwNMGdEUdONUlTTSlIJM7o0c/s1600/Kolme+huppua.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="1600" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZOk4tOYp7dkZH3tzgMou0XVM7Xag09GwkSYmeAW3VjniqnTAbLWCw1CUcq52zIFBttvw7RRcwO9hws0aF1sFPxQIOsaJih-M0GeE9p9d2h-61FwD8exxwNMGdEUdONUlTTSlIJM7o0c/s640/Kolme+huppua.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Oranssi
huppu muistuttaa eniten Skjoldehamnin huppua, sillä sen pääntiessä ei
ole muotoilua. Se on myös ommeltu esikuvansa tavoin yliluottelemalla. Sininen ja keltainen huppu ovat identtiset: voin
tarvittaessa yhdistää ne käännettäväksi hupuksi. (Sininen huppu kuvattu nurjalta puolelta.) </span><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">/ <i>The orange hood is
most alike to the Skjoldehamn find: the opening is straight and it's
assembled with a whip stitch, unlike the other two. The blue and the
yellow hood are identical, and I can combine them if I ever feel the
need for a reversable warm winter hood. (The blue hood is photographed inside out.) </i></span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8JeyQpguOPC_NHpM8_Tiz8U4ACBEDN84aSn3GGg7ACzGmS-rqE2SfJ0ODUiGAUb4sd-YEwWZhNZeklmtlcxaBXBJcLvUacBD6Vb4KpitMY10HrD30pMAETb-t7w4VjtzCyAOFeI_eyk/s1600/yksityiskohtia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG8JeyQpguOPC_NHpM8_Tiz8U4ACBEDN84aSn3GGg7ACzGmS-rqE2SfJ0ODUiGAUb4sd-YEwWZhNZeklmtlcxaBXBJcLvUacBD6Vb4KpitMY10HrD30pMAETb-t7w4VjtzCyAOFeI_eyk/s640/yksityiskohtia.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Pääntie on huoliteltu täytelangoilla samaan tapaan kuin Skjoldehamnin löytö. /<i> I neatened the head opening in a similar way as the Skjoldehamn hood: by couching filler threads next to folded raw edges. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photos: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.com/</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-30304575537497545952018-01-01T05:47:00.000-08:002018-01-02T08:41:56.481-08:001700-luku: Raidallinen livstycke ja puolihame -- 18th century: A striped livstycke and a matching petticoat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPx1BMwcx4xWpLmyi6gcRJvcz70x6xm32W912G-POmQSCuySMM_APNuj0O4JpyhtE656WxgPJqHK5wlHwkNsBldasqEcsbup01sluX_IGsnPywLLMW9iru3tg75zu9bFFXDqO4QOA7GbA/s1600/sivukuva+liivist%25C3%25A4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPx1BMwcx4xWpLmyi6gcRJvcz70x6xm32W912G-POmQSCuySMM_APNuj0O4JpyhtE656WxgPJqHK5wlHwkNsBldasqEcsbup01sluX_IGsnPywLLMW9iru3tg75zu9bFFXDqO4QOA7GbA/s640/sivukuva+liivist%25C3%25A4.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Livstycke</i> oli 1700-luvulla asiakirjoissa käytetty ruotsinkielinen nimitys naisten liiville. Livstycke<i> is the swedish word used for a kind of vest-bodice used by women in the 18th century. </i>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Viime talvena tein ihan harjoitusmielessä useampia pieniä 1700-luvun ompeluprojekteja. En kuitenkaan koskaan ottanut niistä kuvia ehkäpä siksi etten ollut kovin tyytyväinen niistä yhteenkään. Toiseksi, kuvauskokonaisuudesta tuntui puuttuvan aina jokin asuste, kuten oikeanlaiset sukat ja sukkanauhat tai päähine - ja ennen kaikkea sopivat kengät. Sopivat kengät tuli sittemmin tilattua American Duchessilta ja muutama tyydyttävä sukkapari löytyi ihan kaupasta. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>During last winter I did some smaller 18th century pieces to practice the patterning and sewing techniques of the period. I never got around to posting any pictures of these projects mainly because I was not too pleased with the results. Secondly, I felt that I was always missing some crucial detail, like an appropriate cap, stockings, garter - and mainly: shoes. Later on I did order a pair of late 18th century buckle shoes from American Duchess and found a few pairs of plausible 18th century-ish stockings at a local store.</i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Livstycke</i> eli liivi </span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Livstycke a.k.a <i>the vest-like bodice</i> </span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ruotsinvallan
ajan perukirjoissa naisen liiviä kutsuttiin ruotsinkielisellä nimellä
"livstycke". Englannissa ja Yhdysvalloissa samantyyppisiä luuttomia tai
vain kevyesti luilla tuettuja liivejä kutsuttiin nimellä "jumps".
1700-luvulta ja 1800-luvun alusta periytyviä liivimalleja käytetään
edelleen monien ruotsalaisten ja suomalaisten naisten kansallispukujen
esikuvina. Myös porvaris- ja säätyläisnaiset saatoivat omistaa liivejä
ja käyttää niitä kotioloissa. Oma versioni sopisi materiaalinsa puolesta
ehkäpä parhaiten piikatytön tai pienporvarisnaisen kesäasuksi. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>During
the Swedish rule the term for a lady's vest-like garment (or jumps as
the lightly boned or bone-less garments are known in England and the
US) in wills was "livstycke", and the extant pieces from the 18th and
early 19th century are still used as models for several folk costumes in
Sweden and Finland. Middle- and upper class women could also use these vest-bodices
as a part of their more informal attire at home. My version would
perhaps be best suited as summer wear for a maid-servant or a lower
middle class woman.</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Henrietta Elisabeth Cederström.jpg" class="mw-mmv-final-image jpg mw-mmv-dialog-is-open" height="640" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4a/Henrietta_Elisabeth_Cederstr%C3%B6m.jpg/800px-Henrietta_Elisabeth_Cederstr%C3%B6m.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="553" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Henrietta Elisabet Cederström (1771 - 1854). Jonas Forslund. <a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4a/Henrietta_Elisabeth_Cederstr%C3%B6m.jpg/800px-Henrietta_Elisabeth_Cederstr%C3%B6m.jpg" target="_blank">Wikimedia Commons</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Pehr Hilleström-Två tjänsteflickor vid en bäck.jpg" class="mw-mmv-final-image jpg mw-mmv-dialog-is-open" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9b/Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-Tv%C3%A5_tj%C3%A4nsteflickor_vid_en_b%C3%A4ck.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kaksi liiveihin pukeutunutta piikaa. Pehr Hilleström, 1700-luku. <i>Two maid-servants dressed in vest-like bodices. Pehr Hilleström, 18th century</i>. <a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9b/Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-Tv%C3%A5_tj%C3%A4nsteflickor_vid_en_b%C3%A4ck.jpg" target="_blank">Wikimedia Commons</a></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Pehr Hilleström-Tvänne Qvinnor, den ena skär skinka, den andra stöter peppar.jpg" class="mw-mmv-final-image jpg mw-mmv-dialog-is-open" height="640" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-Tv%C3%A4nne_Qvinnor%2C_den_ena_sk%C3%A4r_skinka%2C_den_andra_st%C3%B6ter_peppar.jpg/800px-Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-Tv%C3%A4nne_Qvinnor%2C_den_ena_sk%C3%A4r_skinka%2C_den_andra_st%C3%B6ter_peppar.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="497" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Raidallisen liiviin pukeutunut piika. Pehr Hilleström, 1700-luvun loppu. <i>A maid-servant wearing a striped vest. Pehr Hilleström, late 18th century. </i><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/a5/Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-Tv%C3%A4nne_Qvinnor%2C_den_ena_sk%C3%A4r_skinka%2C_den_andra_st%C3%B6ter_peppar.jpg/800px-Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-Tv%C3%A4nne_Qvinnor%2C_den_ena_sk%C3%A4r_skinka%2C_den_andra_st%C3%B6ter_peppar.jpg" target="_blank">Wikimedia Commons</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i></i> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kangas</span></span></h2>
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<i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Fabric</span></span></i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Kankaaksi
valitsin raidallisen pellava-puuvilla sekoitteen, jossa on
luonnonvalkea loimi ja värillinen kude. Kagas näyttää vaaleanpunaiselta,
mutta todellisuudessa kude on kirkkaanpunainen. En onnistunut löytämään
raidan mallille 1700-lukuista vastinetta, mutta tässä tapauksessa
kankaan edullisuus ja kokeilunhalu ajoivat historiallisten esikuvien
edelle. Vuorikangas on valkaisematonta pellavapalttinaa.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Säätyläisnaisten
perukirjoissa mainitut liivit olivat usein silkkiä ja joskus villaa.
Oululaisten piikojen perukirjoista löytyy yllättäen vain harvoja
mainintoja liiveistä, eikä niiden materiaalia ole aina kirjattu. Rahvaan
naisten arvokkaimmat liivit oli usein valmistettu kalminkista
(villakangas), mutta mainintoja puolivillaisita liiveistä löytyy myös. 1700-luvun Oululaisten piikojen pukeutumista käsittelevää <a href="http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201410161941.pdf" target="_blank">gradu</a> antaa myös kuvan villasta naisten liivin pääasiallisena materiaalina. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tutkimuskirjallisuus ei siis tunnu tukevan ajatusta kansannaisten
käyttämistä kasvikuituisista liiveistä. Onko siis lainkaan järkevää tehdä asua tällaisesta kankaasta? Säätyläisnaisten perukirjoista
löytyy ainakin runsaasti mainintoja palttinasta ja karttuunista
valmistetuista nuttupuvuista, joten tämän tyyppisiä kankaita kuitenkin
käytettiin toisenkinlaisissa arkipuvuissa. Yksi selitys saatta olla, että pellavasta,
puuvillasta ja näiden sekoitteesta valmistetut liivit olivat niin
arkisia ja loppuun kulutettuja, ettei niistä kirjattu ylös laisinkaan.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The
fabric I chose is a linen-cotton blend with a natural white linen loom
and colourful weft. The appearance of the fabric is pink, but in reality
the weft is bright red. I could not find a sufficient extant example
for the fabric from any museum collections or literature, but as this
was a practice piece I was itching to try the pattern out anyway, and so the urge
to experiment won in in the end. The
lining is plain-woven unbleached linen.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The
bodice-vests mentioned in gentlewomens wills were usually made of silk
fabrics and at times of worsted wool. The most valued vest-bodices common women had were usually made of worsted wool. To my dissapointment I struggled to find any mention of cotton or linen livstyckes in literature. For example, there are very few mentions of these vests in the wills of the women
who worked as maids in Oulu according to a very interesting<a href="http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201410161941.pdf" target="_blank"> masters thesis</a> form 2014 (it's in Finnish). In many cases, the material of the vest-bodice is
not mentioned at all, but when it is, it's usually worsted wool or
half-wool (probably linen loom and wool weft). </i></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>So is it a bad idea to use cotton and linen fabrics for vest-bodices? I think it is plausible that these fabrics were used for summer clothing, as there are several mentions of different types of jackets and matching petticoats made out of cotton or linen fabrics in Finnish gentlewomens wills. Perhaps some of these gaments were intended for everyday use and were so worn out that they were not deemed important enough to mention in wills.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Kaava</span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The Pattern</i> </span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Halusin kokeilla 1760-luvun lopun ranskalaisesta kaavakirjasta löytyvän "luuttoman kureliivin/korsetin" kaavoitusta. Malli muistuttaa paljon esimerkiksi ruotsalaisista muoseoista löytyviä liivejä, mutta erojakin on: monissa pohjoismaisissa liiveissä takaosaan on leikattu lomittain laskostuvat helmakörtit. Ranskalaisessa kaavassa niitä ei ole, vaan selkäkappaleen linja on vartalonmyötäisempi.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Liivi koostuu kahdesta etusivu- ja kahdesta takakappaleesta. Etu- ja takakappaleiden saumat asettuvat selkäpuolelle. </span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Liivi on ommeltu aikalaistekniikoin pellavalangalla. </span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Hame on samasta kankaasta ja leikattu samaan tapaan kuin aiemmin esitellyt alushameet. </span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://artflx.uchicago.edu/images/encyclopedie/V26/plate_26_9_24.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://artflx.uchicago.edu/images/encyclopedie/V26/plate_26_9_24.jpeg" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="490" height="640" width="390" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Luuttoman liivin kaavakuvat löytyvät numeroiden 4 ja 5 alta. <i>The patterns for the unboned bodice are found under figure 4 and 5. </i>Photo: http://artflx.uchicago.edu/images/encyclopedie/V26/plate_26_9_24.jpeg</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I
wanted to experiment with a late 1760's pattern for boneless
stays/jumps as it resembles the vest-bodices used in Nordic countries at
the time. Although the model is similar, there are differences too: in
many Nordic examples the back of the vest is cut with folding skirts or
as rounded tabs. However, the french pattern is more form-fitting.</i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>My vest-bodice consists of two front pieces and two back pieces. The seams of the
front and back pieces run diagonally on the back side. The vest is sewn
with period stitches in linen thread. The matcing petticoat is made in a
similar ways as my other petticoats.</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Livstycke. Raidallisissa 1700-liiveissä takaosan kankaan kuviot muodostivat tyypillisesti v-kuvion selkäpuolelle. <i>The striped womens vest were usually cut to form a v-shaped symmetrical pattern at the center back. </i>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img alt="Livstycke med skört och snörning. Halvylle, varp av vitt lingarn, inslag av tunt ullgarn. Tyget randigt med botten i tuskaft med vitt ullgarn, parvisa ränder i kypert med rött ullgarn I de vita partierna broderat stiliserade blommor och blad i schattérsöm i rött och orange ullgarn med mörkt gröna stjälkar och svarta konturer i stjälksöm samt även små rutiga romber i rött. Broderiet sytt genom både yttertyg och foder. Livstycket skuret i 2 framstycken/sidstycken och 2 ryggstycken, runt nederkanten njurformade skörtflikar som överlappar varandra. Snörning med 7 par tränsade snörhål. Foder av grov oblekt linnelärft.
Anm. Mycket trasigt. Ena axelbandet uppsprättat och styvt av svart ämne. Även en stor mörk fläck i ryggen som gjort tyget stelt.
Sannolikt ett försök att efterlikna ett brokadtyg.
/Berit Eldvik 2008-01-22" draggable="false" height="488" src="https://dms-cf-04.dimu.org/image/022s8YCjCrSn?dimension=1200x1200" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><a href="https://dms-cf-04.dimu.org/image/022s8YCjCrSn?dimension=1200x1200" target="_blank">Ruotsalaisen liivin</a> pyöristetyt helmakörtit vuoripuolelta kuvattuna. 1770 - 1799. Nordiska Museet. <i>A detail of the lining side shows the rounded hem of this <a href="https://dms-cf-04.dimu.org/image/022s8YCjCrSn?dimension=1200x1200" target="_blank">swedish vest</a>. 1770 - 1799. Nordiska Muset. </i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Päädyin
lopulta lisäämään etukappaleiden reunoihin luukujan pitääkseni
etullinjan suorana. Luumateriaalina toimi muovinen nippuside.
Todellisuudessa rottinki olisi ollut historiallisesti korrektimpi
vaihtoehto. Ruotsissa ja Norjassa on säilynyt osin rottingilla
luitettuja liivejä, mutta Suomessa ei vastaavia ilmeisesti ole säilynyt.
Pehmeissä liiveissä etukappale on kuitenkin harvoin leikattu
yhtäjaksoisesti suoraan, kuten ranskalaisessa kaavassa. Sen sijaan,
vyötärölinjan alle jäävä helma on leikattu viistoon, joka parantaa
vaatteen istuvuutta. (Ks. alla oleva kuva)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Because
of some fitting issues I decided to add some boning to the center front.
I used cable ties, but cane or reed would have been more period
appropriate. As far as I know there are no surviving examples of boned
vest in here in Finland, but those can be found in Sweden and Norway.
Those vests that have no boning seem to have been cut in an angled way as
shown in the picture below.</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img src="https://www.finna.fi/Cover/Show?id=musketti_tmk.M20%3ATMM6145&index=0&size=large&w=1200&h=1200" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.finna.fi/Cover/Show?id=musketti_tmk.M20%3ATMM6145&index=0&size=large&w=1200&h=1200" target="_blank">Suomalainen kamlottiliivi</a> (1700 - 1799) Turun museokeskuksen kokoelmista. <i>A finnish vest made of worsted wool (dated 1700 - 1799). Turku Museum Centre.</i></span> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nyörinreiät on ommeltu napinläpipellavalla. <i>The lacing holes are sewn with with a cotton thread. </i>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nyöritys ei mennyt ihan putkeen... <i>The lacing is not quite right... </i>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tiina Kuokkanen, 2014. <i>Vaatetus identiteetin ilmentäjänä - Piikojen pukeutuminen 1700-luvun Oulussa. (Clothing as a manifestation of identity - The dress of maids in 18th century Oulu.*). </i>Pro Gradu -tutkielma. Oulun yliopisto. <a href="http://jultika.oulu.fi/Record/nbnfioulu-201410161941">http://jultika.oulu.fi/Record/nbnfioulu-201410161941</a> (1.1.2018)</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Ildikó Lehtinen ja Pirkko Sihvo, 2005. <i>Rahwaan puku. Näkökulmia Suomen kansallismuseon kansanpukukokoelmiin. (Folk Costume. An Overview of the Folk Costume Collection of the National Museum of Finland.)</i> Museovirasto. Vammala.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">Riitta Pylkkänen, 1982. <i>Säätyläisnaisten pukeutuminen Suomessa 1700-luvulla (Dress of Gentlewomen in Finland in the 18th Century) </i>Suomen muinaismuistoyhdistyksen aikakausikirja, 84. Vammala.</span></span></span></div>
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*My translation<br />
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Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-78736344885531167572017-12-31T07:09:00.003-08:002018-01-02T09:04:34.595-08:00Vuosi 2017 - tuo alusvaatteiden ja blaah-projektien luvattu aikakausi! -- The Year 2017 was a Year of Undies and Blaah-projects!<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ompelu on onnea? Päällä on tietysti muutamassa päivässä hätäpäissä ommeltu hihaton surcote. Ehkäpä se saa hihat ensi vuonna. <i>Sewing equals happiness? I wearing a very quickly made sleeveless surcote. Perhaps I'll add the sleeves next year... </i>Photo: Ari Laakso</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Joskus tuntuu siltä ettei saa oikein mitään aikaiseksi. Monet käsitöitä tekevät ihmiset usein valittelevat keskeneräisiä projektejaan - myös minä! Ja niitä kyllä löytyy kaapin pohjalta enemmän kuin tarpeeksi... Vuoden lopussa on kuitenkin mukavampi muistella kaikkea sitä mitä on saanut aikaiseksi vaikkei niihin aina olisi kovinkaan tyytyväinen syystä tai toisesta. Suurin osa projekteista jäi dokumentoimatta lähinnä sen vuoksi, että aikanaan ne tuntuivat jotenkin tylsiltä, epäonnistuneilta tai muutoin vain epäinspiroivilta. <b>Loppujen lopuksi sillä ei </b></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>ehkä</b></span> ole väliä kuinka hyvin tai huonosti projektit onnistuivat: ne valmistuivat ja jokaisen projektin kohdalla opin taas monia uusia asioita - se jos jokin on merkki hyvin käytetystä ajasta! </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>At times it feels like you haven't accomplished much. Many people who sew or do other crafts often complain about their unfinnished work - including me! And there are several discarded projects laying in the darkness of my closet... However, at the end of the year it's much nicer to take a more positive stance and really see what you actually have managed to finnish - you might even surprise yourself! Most of the project shown below were not documented for one reason or another. Most often I felt that they were not too succesful or just plain boring and uninspiring. <b>In the end I don't think it matters so much how well or badly they turned out: I finished them and learned many useful things along the way and that's time well spent!</b></i><b> </b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rautakausi</span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Iron Age</i></span></span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Pukkisaaren rautakautisen kauppakylän markkinoita varten Mikke sai uuden tunikan. Viikinkiaikainen huppu valmistui markkinoilla puhdetöinä. Itse pukeuduin vanhaan Euran mekkoon, jota tein työnäytöksenä Kuralan Kylämäen ulkoilmamuseon vuosittaisilla muinaistekniikan päivillä muutama vuosi sitten. Hieno esiliina on lainatavaraa. <i>Mikke got a new tunic to wear at the iron age village market in Pukkisaari, Helsinki. The viking age hood was finished at the market. I wore my old Eura dress that I made during the annual ancient techniques days in the open-air museum Kuralan Kylämäki a few years ago. The beautiful apron was a loan. </i>Photo: Johan Blomster</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i></i> </span></span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Keskiaika </span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The Middle Ages</i> </span></span></h3>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Joululahjaksi Mikke sai 1400-luvun asuun (joo, se on työn alla...) lyhyempihelmaisen aluspaidan... <i>For Christmas Mikke got a new shorter shirt to better fit his 15th c. garb (yeah, I haven't finished it yet..)... </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">....ja pienemmät braiesit (yllä). Isommat 1300-luvullekin sopivat valmistuivat jo kesällä. <i>... and a smaller pair of braies (above) The bigger 14th century ones were finished this summer. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tiedätkö sen tunteen, kun olet kahdessa päivässä ommellut uuden 1400-luvun vyötärösaumallisen hätävaramekon ja kaikki ihanat ystävät ovat ympärillä, mutta oman työn tulokset eivät jotenkin innosta... Siksi naama on nurinpäin. Seura oli kuitenkin ensiluokkaista ja kirvoitti lopulta ihan aidonkin hymyn tälle nyrpeälle naamalle <3 <i>You know that feeling when you have sewn a new 15th c. waist seamed kirtle in two days to replace the one that didn't quite work out? Then the big day comes and you have all your lovely friends around you and all you can think about is that the dress is just blaaah... Luckily the company was outstanding and I did manage to smile once or twice <3 </i>Photo: Mira Tammelin <a href="http://users.utu.fi/mhtamm/">http://users.utu.fi/mhtamm/</a> </span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Oho, näyttääpä oudolta. Oikeasti tämä on ihan nätti livenä... Joo, näitä aluspaitoja tuli tehtyä muutama... Tässä valkaisematon pellavapaita keskiaikaiseen vaatearkkuun. <i> Honest, it's very pretty and well made in real life... Yep, I did make a few of these this past year... This unbleached one belongs to my medieval wardrobe. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> 1700-luku</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>18th century </i></span></h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoWEN_BcO2U0E3CtjR8Ln6kdGKu5WfVED4qx_kiyj3SVdxGfYVspe-e3KlKz1j61k0pZ4q0yFp5qUYErOq11Fp-qTru7XruQLQMjmWoyiFamOYSLU5apEEqP0IxgHUmMwKCKetNKaS6lY/s1600/P1010115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoWEN_BcO2U0E3CtjR8Ln6kdGKu5WfVED4qx_kiyj3SVdxGfYVspe-e3KlKz1j61k0pZ4q0yFp5qUYErOq11Fp-qTru7XruQLQMjmWoyiFamOYSLU5apEEqP0IxgHUmMwKCKetNKaS6lY/s320/P1010115.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC2h9rOI5K6v9pqM0OnDK67Q5fzNcR2uwYSK6J-zCrswwHN820NlZB08CW2JnFK-BIY8eHo9u7wiETa-Hc4Qlxya4iJYmStvxBGPoRcu4xOTrFFlrRElVJCQ32AP8wbb-3c5gRTLgB50A/s1600/P1010140+STAYS+a.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjC2h9rOI5K6v9pqM0OnDK67Q5fzNcR2uwYSK6J-zCrswwHN820NlZB08CW2JnFK-BIY8eHo9u7wiETa-Hc4Qlxya4iJYmStvxBGPoRcu4xOTrFFlrRElVJCQ32AP8wbb-3c5gRTLgB50A/s400/P1010140+STAYS+a.JPG" width="400" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">1780-luvun korsetti. Luukujat on ommeltu koneella, loput käsin. Istuvuus ei ole paras mahdollinen, mutta aivan nätti harjoituskappale siitä kuitenkin tuli.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>My 1780's stays. The bone channels were machine-sewn, but rest was done by hand. Their fit could be better, but they good enough for my first try.</i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sain lopulta myös valmiiksi 1770-luvun Diderot-kureliivin. Tahra on verta. Kureliivien teko on kivuliaista. <i>I managed to finish my 1770's Diderot stays. The stain is blood. Making stays is painful. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Alusvaatekäyttöön tein kaksi alushametta... <i>I made two underpetticoats...</i></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">... ja kaksi myssyä. <i>... and two caps. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1wiZeGaoVxMDsBPo-fsf-i7DsDjIPEigDg2pjGzF7_ZKWU-adVS_Et92eKZK6ymqi6I6-wqA6gIdwW4jPHvCy97yw0Dtw1U9GauujH72ajapUVvrCN_btoVC6gek_AFJXtjcFxCX3R3k/s1600/DSC08893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1wiZeGaoVxMDsBPo-fsf-i7DsDjIPEigDg2pjGzF7_ZKWU-adVS_Et92eKZK6ymqi6I6-wqA6gIdwW4jPHvCy97yw0Dtw1U9GauujH72ajapUVvrCN_btoVC6gek_AFJXtjcFxCX3R3k/s640/DSC08893.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Käsintikattu hameen pöyhennin aka pepputyyni tuli myös tehtyä. <i>I also managed to hand quilt this alternative bum roll. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnvLxZC4J6bS6mWR-DDBaNajVeclJdEZ-LfVE6ulsB6Bbg6WoSLsvcd-6yllqQwPKWNbN-jUEYwUuGRlXZ-bgjSNEOmF70Gz1BpOuAd009xTmrcPqeOB8OMIe2MRClEJQ7s3QCuLKPPk/s1600/rococo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsnvLxZC4J6bS6mWR-DDBaNajVeclJdEZ-LfVE6ulsB6Bbg6WoSLsvcd-6yllqQwPKWNbN-jUEYwUuGRlXZ-bgjSNEOmF70Gz1BpOuAd009xTmrcPqeOB8OMIe2MRClEJQ7s3QCuLKPPk/s640/rococo.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Rokokoolanteet. Kaava Jean Hunnisetin kirjasta <i>Period Costume for Stage and Screen (1991). Rococo his aka pocket hoops. The pattern is from </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Period Costume for Stage and Screen (1991). </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MeJef0Iik12u4JDA2eo-ExHtu6upflh1LffRQPNn8Xb6K7gf0q7u1-dAFTyc5u9gLP5AGCwX6N3t1z0IRJ2ceLCd7m4dnbmdRqZyYaz5Sx82XZpENq3Tz5pLyJy0F_SlJqXxlI3FcuA/s1600/DSC08997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2MeJef0Iik12u4JDA2eo-ExHtu6upflh1LffRQPNn8Xb6K7gf0q7u1-dAFTyc5u9gLP5AGCwX6N3t1z0IRJ2ceLCd7m4dnbmdRqZyYaz5Sx82XZpENq3Tz5pLyJy0F_SlJqXxlI3FcuA/s640/DSC08997.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tämä kansanomainen liivi- ja hameasu sekä puhvihihainen aluspaita kuuluvat myös tämän vuoden satoon. Kangas ei ollut paras mahdollinen, mutta ihan söpö romantisoitu 1700-luvun kansannaisen kesäasu siitä kuitenkin tuli. <i>This folk-like vest (livstycke) and petticoat ensamble and the puff-sleeved shirt were also completed this year. The fabric choice was a bit iffy, but I decided it was good enough for this experimental and somewhat romatisized version of an 18th century common woman's summer outfit. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-71217107783849524322017-10-28T00:03:00.000-07:002017-10-28T00:36:30.842-07:00 1700-luvun lopun punainen kaapu -- A red late 18th century cloak<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMQQMDO5rNdL_XKpCaLYCFJwKb6o38vPWcU_KgIPxc29o8tXyOvgkhr6YDeyyaM7fChjcK7vUSCQD9gu274MR-dgsBuxIxsaryzB_MYP6vmT2kMe6yChnWEAJ8KFdEmHU3n2MkDD9ygoc/s1600/Profiili.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMQQMDO5rNdL_XKpCaLYCFJwKb6o38vPWcU_KgIPxc29o8tXyOvgkhr6YDeyyaM7fChjcK7vUSCQD9gu274MR-dgsBuxIxsaryzB_MYP6vmT2kMe6yChnWEAJ8KFdEmHU3n2MkDD9ygoc/s640/Profiili.JPG" width="640" /></a></i></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Onko tässä Punahilkka vai onko kyseessä sittenkin 1700-luvulta säilyneeseen kaapuun perustuva rekonstruktio? Päätä itse. <i>Is this Red Hiding Hood or is it just a reconstruction of an extant 18th century cloak? You decide. </i>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi<i><br /></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;">Käytännöllinen villakaapu </span></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"></span></span></span>
</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span style="line-height: 150%;">The practical wool cloak</span></i></b></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">Sekä naiset että miehet käyttivät
1700-luvulla erilaisia viittoja tai kaapuja ulkopäällysvaatteina. Hienoimmat
valmistettiin silkistä ja vuorattiin etenkin talvikäyttöön turkiksilla.
Vaatimattomammat ja käytännölliset matka- ja sadekaavut valmistettiin
villakankaista ja vuorattiin toisinaan velpillä (kuviokudottu
villakangastyyppi) tai karttuunilla (kuviopainettu kangas, todennäköisesti
pellavaa tai puolipellavaa). Suomalaisissa säätyläisnaisten perunkirjoissa
mainitut villakankaiset kaavut oli usein valmistettu sinisestä, ruskeasta,
harmaasta, tummanvihreästä tai punaisesta kamlotista (kampalankavillasta ja
joskus villan ja silkin sekoitteesta valmistettu kangas) ja niiden huppu oli
vuorattu erivärisellä silkkitaftilla. Verka- tai sarkakankaasta valmistettuja
kaapuja ei suomalaisista perukirjoista ilmeisesti löydy, vaikka niiden voisi
ajatella sopineen hyvin maamme kylmään ilmastoon. On toki mahdollista, että
halvemmista villakangaslaaduista valmistettuja kaapuja pidettiin niin arkisina,
ettei niitä merkitty ainakaan säätyläisnaisten perukirjoihin.</span></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">Mielenkiinoista on, että
pukuhistorioitsija Riitta Pylkkänen arvelee juuri punaisten ja tummanvihreiden
kamlottikaapujen olleen näistä arkisista käyttövaatteista arvokkaimpia. Sen
sijaan Englannissa punaiset verasta valmistetut villakaavut liitettiin usein maaseudun rahvaaseen.</span></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZIJZ27sghNfJ6H7eycUTGDyJUeDgDbMQlT1mNml3L1JieG5ptKjKOgjJ9cftqn34MbdFUtB8UGN2QZTFlXieu74LGkRvfZkapfBl-T4y1FI-Bgt7LIcqS320_2pXtHdEIgWqPsowulY/s1600/Viitta1_s%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4detty.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWZIJZ27sghNfJ6H7eycUTGDyJUeDgDbMQlT1mNml3L1JieG5ptKjKOgjJ9cftqn34MbdFUtB8UGN2QZTFlXieu74LGkRvfZkapfBl-T4y1FI-Bgt7LIcqS320_2pXtHdEIgWqPsowulY/s640/Viitta1_s%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4detty.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisq5Bf4I3s8t4Bxgn01W85Z3amS0PmKGaJvlwWirVImqPAn04MobXpDa53IrD19SF_sC_4Etk6EYiMvVrpOhxtrfv1iZeFukym44WXHQFao_k3GvLsyY6yLFoNVCkdRVeHzxGWkdhIhO8/s1600/viitta+shopattu_s%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4detty.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisq5Bf4I3s8t4Bxgn01W85Z3amS0PmKGaJvlwWirVImqPAn04MobXpDa53IrD19SF_sC_4Etk6EYiMvVrpOhxtrfv1iZeFukym44WXHQFao_k3GvLsyY6yLFoNVCkdRVeHzxGWkdhIhO8/s640/viitta+shopattu_s%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4detty.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">Both women and men used different
sorts of capes and cloaks as outerwear during the 18th century. The finer
cloaks were made of silk and could be lined with fur for winter use. The more
modest and practical ones were made of wool and sometimes lined with another
sort of woollen fabric or block printed linen or linen blend. The woollen
cloaks mentioned in Finnish gentlewomen’s wills were usually made of worsted
wool in blue, brown, grey, dark green or red, with silk taffeta lining on the
hood. Apparently, there is no evidence of broadcloth or vadmal cloaks in gentlewomen's wills, although
these would have been very suitable materials in our cool climate. It’s of
course possible, that the cloaks that were made of cheaper cloth were simply
left out of gentlewomens wills - if they existed at all. </span></i></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">An interesting detail is that the
Finnish costume historian Riitta Pylkkänen thinks that especially the red and
green worsted cloaks were the most valuable ones out of these everyday
garments among finnish gentlewomen. Instead, in England, the red broadcloth cloaks were regarded as a sign of
the wearers ungenteel country origins.</span></i></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghiEUGPKrkVeEivJouZcL1pB98uDO5N5Z_FWAxrLWz6tNQ-aXDQJj6BUH8jZn2h5nQpG-OgEd5eajqPtk6LwwAVNiN5BFx8kFpLqMvPhoCI3o86lRFnk2ZEGRgEuk0zSYKz2p95e60tNU/s1600/Pihlajanmarja.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghiEUGPKrkVeEivJouZcL1pB98uDO5N5Z_FWAxrLWz6tNQ-aXDQJj6BUH8jZn2h5nQpG-OgEd5eajqPtk6LwwAVNiN5BFx8kFpLqMvPhoCI3o86lRFnk2ZEGRgEuk0zSYKz2p95e60tNU/s640/Pihlajanmarja.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;">Esikuvat</span></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;"></span></b></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">Extant
examples</span></i></b></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">Colonial Williamsburgin (Virginia,
USA) punainen verkakaapu on yksi tunnetuimmista säilyneistä 1700-luvun
loppupuolen naisten kaavuista. Hupullinen viitta eli kaapu on leikattu puoliympyrän
muotoon ja sen pituus hartiasta helmaan mitattuna on 108 cm. Kaapu on
valmistettu paksuhkosta punaisesta villapalttinasta ja se on ommeltu kaksinkertaisella etupistolla
vaalean keltaruskealla silkkilangalla. Hupun ja viitan reunusten alkuperäinen
silkkivuoraus ei ole säilynyt.</span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<br /></div>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.history.org/history/clothing/women/images/redcloak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="315" data-original-width="500" height="402" src="https://www.history.org/history/clothing/women/images/redcloak.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Colonial Williamsburgin kokoelmiin kuuluva punainen verkaviitta, 1700-luvun loppu. <i>A late 18th century cloak from Colonial Williamsburg. </i></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<![endif]--><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 107%;"><a href="http://www.history.org/history/clothing/women/images/redcloak.jpg"><span style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;">http://www.history.org/history/clothing/women/images/redcloak.jpg</span></a></span><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 107%;"> </span></i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">
</span></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">The red broadcloth cloak from
Colonial Williamsburg (Virginia, USA) is probably one of the most well-known of
the preserved late 18th century women’s cloaks. The hooded cloak is cut into a
semi-circular shape and it measures 108 cm from shoulder to hem. The fabric is rather thick plain woven red wool and the garment is sewn with double running stitches using a light yellow-brown silk thread. The original silk taffeta
lining of the hood and facing of the cloaks body does not survive.</span></i></span></span><br />
<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://mfas3.s3.amazonaws.com/objects/SC277487.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="599" height="640" src="https://mfas3.s3.amazonaws.com/objects/SC277487.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">1700-luvun lopun viitta Bostonin museon kokoelmista. <i>A late 18th century cloak from Museum of Boston collections. </i> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">http://mfas3.s3.amazonaws.com/objects/SC277487.jpg</span><span style="line-height: 150%;"> </span></span></span></td></tr>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 150%; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;">Kangas</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">Fabric</span></i></b></span></span></span></b></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">Oma versioni on valmistettu
tummanpunaisesta ohuehkosta villasekoitepalttinasta. Kangas ei ole paras vaihtoehto viitalle, mutta tällaiseen harjoitusprojektiin se oli riittävän hyvä - ja edullinen. Hupun vuori ja käänteet ovat
mustaa italialaista pukuvillaa, jossa saattaa hyvinkin olla silkkiä mukana.
Kaavun etuosa on käännetty samalla kankaalla. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"><br /></span></i></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">My version is made of a light weight
dark red plain-woven wool blend. It's not the best choice for a garment like this, but I deemed it good enough for a practice project like this - and it was cheap too. The hood is lined and faced with plain woven black
Italian worsted, that might have some silk in it. The front opening is faced
with the same fabric. The cloak is entirely hand sewn with black silk thread. </span></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtgn4ZcO-sFxs75OROW7iGb5Ov4OsV4CFDUiIa2QybsiliylqBbiRa3tszE4qTcUOPfEArQ3XIbDmWGQdY1n1EO4uS2Nv7SJ6fc6pza_8b-AqmYjwjFA66ixYc08gjeEItFQq3diF7OY/s1600/DSC08741.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixtgn4ZcO-sFxs75OROW7iGb5Ov4OsV4CFDUiIa2QybsiliylqBbiRa3tszE4qTcUOPfEArQ3XIbDmWGQdY1n1EO4uS2Nv7SJ6fc6pza_8b-AqmYjwjFA66ixYc08gjeEItFQq3diF7OY/s640/DSC08741.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"> </span></i></b></span></span> </span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;">Rakenne</span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">Construction</span></i></b></span></span> </span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;">Käytin kaavun leikkauksessa alkuperäisiä mittoja. Se
on leikattu neljästä palasesta:
viitassa on kolme palaa ja huppu on leikattu kahdesta palasta. Esikuvan kaavussa huppu oli ommeltu kuudesta kappaleesta. Kaapu on
ommeltu
käsin takapistolla ja ompeluun on käytetty mustaa silkkilankaa. Saumat
on prässätty auki mutta jätetty huolittelematta. Toisin kuin esikuvassa, tämän viitan helma on varmuuden vuoksi huoliteltu päärmeellä.</span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXR8jG3owb690_5KXASCuyP5xeypyFWrVAheGLXk4k4wvgshKljjGpWPi3j39uWhwdiOAmhuxbu_LHIuGzMVbtFn2mpf361t8vTbo4JUFSQKfIO4-vvJDivTX3V03Nb0g-TOhqHEmTrNI/s1600/22752479_10209909558274881_1885589869_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXR8jG3owb690_5KXASCuyP5xeypyFWrVAheGLXk4k4wvgshKljjGpWPi3j39uWhwdiOAmhuxbu_LHIuGzMVbtFn2mpf361t8vTbo4JUFSQKfIO4-vvJDivTX3V03Nb0g-TOhqHEmTrNI/s640/22752479_10209909558274881_1885589869_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXgPAov2x8CbcH-mTeH-H4xS0-N3qmO2wldKwRyGZ-BNLJP-jL8Uv0KK2htj8V4H9rlOsc7T754wKkGU6ZB5CwzrnjARfYhnd3le6gZ68KKbCetEMVbDE_lTENF-jRrwwd8oigbjx8nms/s1600/Kaapu_sis%25C3%25A4kuva_+kopio.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXgPAov2x8CbcH-mTeH-H4xS0-N3qmO2wldKwRyGZ-BNLJP-jL8Uv0KK2htj8V4H9rlOsc7T754wKkGU6ZB5CwzrnjARfYhnd3le6gZ68KKbCetEMVbDE_lTENF-jRrwwd8oigbjx8nms/s640/Kaapu_sis%25C3%25A4kuva_+kopio.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 150%;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">I used the original measurements of the extant cloak. It's cut with five pieces.
The body of the cloak comprises of a center piece and two side pieces. The hood
is cut in two pieces, with the seam running from the center front to center
back. In the original, the hood was pieced with six pieces. The seams are pressed open but left raw. I decided to hem the edge of the cloak, since the fabric I had was only lightly fulled. In the CW example, the edge of the hem was left raw.</span></i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju-3Q6GL8ML-rpvxSk1WxGCSbTIUJmF073_0c5kKdm4w_erfkueRvRFthwxD1G1pOFW_b6FIOkADh8enIWEcfb7_StYkneFGc2MdXedHoCAxLgPy2Io4wQEmcocHck1fuc86LJK9fAAS8/s1600/sauma.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju-3Q6GL8ML-rpvxSk1WxGCSbTIUJmF073_0c5kKdm4w_erfkueRvRFthwxD1G1pOFW_b6FIOkADh8enIWEcfb7_StYkneFGc2MdXedHoCAxLgPy2Io4wQEmcocHck1fuc86LJK9fAAS8/s640/sauma.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Le point à rabattre sous la main. </i>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmAr2DoBnwx_HoF_9s6FG7XFS25fjhW1OR8vfaPxQP2ySNoJLf9dE0uaSfywfwm3zjRPNfc193NLcS2iyGN3YabkWjL1vBku1f8OdBm2djXYyuQA-61NZx3Zt9HN6vOIjSjgWBxhD5aTY/s1600/DSC08700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmAr2DoBnwx_HoF_9s6FG7XFS25fjhW1OR8vfaPxQP2ySNoJLf9dE0uaSfywfwm3zjRPNfc193NLcS2iyGN3YabkWjL1vBku1f8OdBm2djXYyuQA-61NZx3Zt9HN6vOIjSjgWBxhD5aTY/s640/DSC08700.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCUr2r47vwD2l9ewogrsAuQ1Hbst_wRiewzByUQnLdZNM43D9Keu1qkVXu91l0YctdzpYDkILEux0po_ksFDzzNmID9NJ1JW7FRiiA9i7dhV_btulv4yr9ZsHoRojsfrBbVkPNAna0kmA/s1600/DSC08663.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCUr2r47vwD2l9ewogrsAuQ1Hbst_wRiewzByUQnLdZNM43D9Keu1qkVXu91l0YctdzpYDkILEux0po_ksFDzzNmID9NJ1JW7FRiiA9i7dhV_btulv4yr9ZsHoRojsfrBbVkPNAna0kmA/s640/DSC08663.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwNOVswGf6xCDsHV2Dq3zaGQYE3jhsDeE6Fl2xborbSJfgonZSLyRXNAwk_vNXt2_uNBdeHdfZhuNjqklEildwbqqnqAt2XoeNk_ZxWi2ZgCkaaMof0vn96zAdE_u1xOVex4a1GydN00k/s1600/Huppu+sis%25C3%25A4kuva.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwNOVswGf6xCDsHV2Dq3zaGQYE3jhsDeE6Fl2xborbSJfgonZSLyRXNAwk_vNXt2_uNBdeHdfZhuNjqklEildwbqqnqAt2XoeNk_ZxWi2ZgCkaaMof0vn96zAdE_u1xOVex4a1GydN00k/s640/Huppu+sis%25C3%25A4kuva.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"></span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"></span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"></span></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"><br /></span></i></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"> </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">Linda Baumgarten & John Watson with Florine Carr, 1999. <i>Costume Close-Up. Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750 - 1790.</i> Colonial Williamsburg Foundation.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"><br /></span><i><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"></span></i></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">Riitta Pylkkänen, 1982. <i>Säätyläisnaisten pukeutuminen Suomessa 1700-luvulla (Dress of Gentlewomen in Finland in the 18th Century) </i>Suomen muinaismuistoyhdistyksen aikakausikirja, 84. Vammala.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="line-height: 150%;">John Styles, 2007. <i>The Dress of the People. Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth-Century England.</i> Yale University Press. New Haven & London.</span></span></span></div>
Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-29617456433906700972017-10-22T10:21:00.001-07:002017-10-24T23:36:56.713-07:00Persikanvärinen pellavaröijy 1770- ja 1780-luvun taitteesta -- A peach linen jacket, c. 1770's - 1780's<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansimanlapi.blogspot.fi </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tiedättekö
sen kutinan kun tekee mieli ommella jotain nopeaa ja kohtalaisen
stressitöntä pelkästä ompelemisen ilosta? Tämä röijyksi 1700-luvulla
kutsuttu jakku valmistui pari viikkoa sitten, kun ruska oli
parhaimmillaan, mutta pääsimme kuvaamaan sen vasta tänään. Koska
kyseessä oli nk. stressinpurkuprojekti, päätin käyttää JP Ryanin tunnettua
1700-luvun jakkukaavaa kaavoituksen lähtökohtana. Kyseinen kaava on
siitä kätevä, että sen eri osia yhdistelemällä voi valmistaa erilaisia
jakkuja, jotka soveltuvat parhaiten vuosien 1760 - 1780-välille tarkoitettujen
asukokonaisuuksien osaksi. Jouduin lopulta muokkaamaan kaavaa
pienemmäksi (olisi ilmeisesti pitänyt valita pienempi koko), jotta sain jakusta itselleni istuvan. Loppujen lopuksi en
siis säästänyt aikaa käyttämällä valmiskaavaa, sillä samassa ajassa
olisin voinut yhtä hyvin kuositella koko jakun maallinuken päälle... </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Are you familiar with the itching feeling when you long to sew something realtively stress free and quick? Well, I had that familiar feeling a couple of weeks ago, when I made this 18th century jacket, and we finally got around to photographing it today. Since this was ment to be a quick and relaxing project, I decided to use the well known JP Ryan's pattern for 18th century jackets as a starting point. The pattern is rather nice, since it alows you to mix and match different pattern pieces in order to create different styles to from the c. 1760's to 1780's. In the end, I had to adjust the pattern to fit me (I should have gone for a smaller size), so I could just as well have draped a similar pattern on my dress form in the same time it took me to copy and adjust the whole pattern...</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansimanlapi.blogspot.fi </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Jakku
on ommeltu käsin pellavalangalla ajanmukaisin tekniikoin. Se koostuu
kahdesta etu-, sivu- ja takakappaleesta sekä hihoista. Vuori on
valkoista pellavapalttinaa. Jakun alla on uusi puhvihihainen pellava-aluspaita ja Diderot'n vuoden 1776 kaava mukaillen ommeltu kureliivi. Ruskea pellavahame on ikivanha, mutta totesin sen toimivan täydellisesti tämän uuden jakun kanssa, kun törmäsin tähän 1770-luvun lopun ranskalaista kokkia esittävään <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8i-Vc3ltLtfXcIU6UAD4gs8lr8DPO84UzyH8x0FmKOmX_Utjr8ZklcHESnulUCYZX7FJhV-qPnPt0d0pE8cxKcfOmJ6fjFFV_SkFeUDQzoCq-HqnqxDJdWu18mN9krywWP1qpMhI6d21/s640/169-0001-059.jpg" target="_blank">kuvaan</a>. Puolihameen alla minulla on Paperinukke-projektiin tehty suomalaisen palvelustytön alushame ja "pyllytyyny" tuomassa asianmukaista muhkeutta. Jakku kiinnitetään edestä neuloin.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><i>The
jacket is entirely hand-sewn with linen thread and period appropriate
stitches. It has two front-, side- and back pieces plus sleeves. I used
white plainwoven linen to line the jacket. </i>I'm wearing my new shift that has longer puffed sleeves and my 1776's Diderot stays underneath the jacket</i>. T<i>he brown linen petticoat is ancient, but when I came across <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp8i-Vc3ltLtfXcIU6UAD4gs8lr8DPO84UzyH8x0FmKOmX_Utjr8ZklcHESnulUCYZX7FJhV-qPnPt0d0pE8cxKcfOmJ6fjFFV_SkFeUDQzoCq-HqnqxDJdWu18mN9krywWP1qpMhI6d21/s640/169-0001-059.jpg" target="_blank">this print</a> depicting a french cook from the 1770's dressed in peach jacket, brown petticoat, and blue stockings I decided it was a perfect match. Underneath I'm wearing my Finnish maid's underpetticoat from my Paper Doll -project, and a bum-pad to add some appropriate oomhp. The jacket is closes with pins at the center front.</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">En malttanut olla laittamatta uusia American Duchessilta tilaamiani kenkiä jalkaani, vaikka niiden säihkyvät soljet olivat ehkä liian hienot asun arkisuuteen nähden...<i> </i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>I couldn't resist wearing my new shoes from American Duchess for this photo shoot, even though the blingy buckles made them a bit too fancy for the rest of the outfit....</i></span> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Ihanat saumat!</span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The lovely seams!</i> </span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Ehkä kaikkein ihastuttavinta 1700-luvun vaatteiden valmistamisessa ovat aikakauden saumarakenteet. Voisin jaaritella niiden nerokkuudesta ikuisuuden, mutta annetaan kuvien puhua. Alla olevat prosessikuvat ovat eräästä
toisesta projektista, jossa saumojen rakenne on sama kuin tässä
persikanvärisessä röijyssä. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Perhaps the most appealing thing about 18th century dressmaking are the seaming and stitching techniques of the era. I could go on and on about the ingenoius ways they used to stitch things together, but I'll let the pictures do the talking this time. The making of pics
undearneath are from a different project that had similar
seam-structures as this new peach jacket.</i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sauma rakentuu seuraavasti: kuvassa alle jäävät päälli- ja vuorikangas, joiden päälle toisen puolen päällikangas taitetaan...</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The seams are made accordingly: in the image you can see, that the right side fashion fabric is folded and placed over the fashion fabric and the lining on the left. </i> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Palat kiinnitetään toisiinsa pienen jaksotetuin takapistoin, jotka näyttävät tältä oikealta puolelta katsottuna. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>T</i><i><i>he pieces are sewn together with tiny spaced back-stitches that look like this when viewed from the right side.</i></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tältä sauma näyttää ennen toisen puolen vuorikankaan kiinnittämistä. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>This is what the seam looks like before you attach the other part of the lining.</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i> </i>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Seuraavassa vaiheessa toinen vuoripuoli taitetaan...</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Next, the edge of the other side of the lining is folded under...</i></span></span><br />
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mVHvYNVceTyIDhX3sW8JossfwmQ4W0cUrMZTEiGuZhzjuhtQ7u5lfu4Dm0UVdqYgl9_o6JC-X9LOR9GeD8c7g-2gT6GzKmFRlhbI79ZMJCym7BirxFt9aICfzEVa7c-bnFxDXlNnV20/s1600/cw+jacket+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mVHvYNVceTyIDhX3sW8JossfwmQ4W0cUrMZTEiGuZhzjuhtQ7u5lfu4Dm0UVdqYgl9_o6JC-X9LOR9GeD8c7g-2gT6GzKmFRlhbI79ZMJCym7BirxFt9aICfzEVa7c-bnFxDXlNnV20/s640/cw+jacket+5.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i> </i>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> ... ja ommellaan jo ensimmäisessä vaiheessa kiinnitettyyn vuorikankaaseen niin, että takapistosauman raja ei jää näkyviin<i>. </i></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>...and sewn to the other part of the lining to hide the back-stitched seam.</i></span></span><br />
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiU18vMf7chKQdlN6o0CTfRbHXBsqzIhgIWzQjBfYoU53tGf-SBrPq4XcwD4zIK2381WEU3bZKmMORZ8nNIgxou-RFAMM1EaSnhOJZCzYpzrQiZLr_s3RARmiMsHrJ09juKlUHxvMbwKU/s1600/cw+jacket+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="635" data-original-width="477" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiU18vMf7chKQdlN6o0CTfRbHXBsqzIhgIWzQjBfYoU53tGf-SBrPq4XcwD4zIK2381WEU3bZKmMORZ8nNIgxou-RFAMM1EaSnhOJZCzYpzrQiZLr_s3RARmiMsHrJ09juKlUHxvMbwKU/s640/cw+jacket+6.jpg" width="478" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neluansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Reunat on huoliteltu pistolla joka tunnetaan ranskankielisellä nimellä <i>le point à rabattre sous la main</i>. Tämä ovela pisto näyttää oikealta puolelta tarkasteltuna etupistolta ja nurjalta puolelta luotospistolta, mutta onkin niiden yhdistelmä.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The edges were neatened with what is known as </i>le point </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">à</span></span> rabattre sous la main. <i>This clever stitch looks like a running stitch when you view it form the right side and like a hemming stitch from the reverse side, but it's actually a kind of a combination of the two.</i></span></span></div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkLOEQ19yl9w8qNL5GFkzPAcVlqdt3J8fsHN-Q8-l9Ed-zmAkVAg-fQ5XTg3ecjXjlXDSe8SFWQOsxTJTSONcvr-J7uub-XC6sCajep4qfKpAYmhBJopZpvlZO4hTY-1yOxposeFZm24A/s1600/22711196_10209905683058003_675867704_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkLOEQ19yl9w8qNL5GFkzPAcVlqdt3J8fsHN-Q8-l9Ed-zmAkVAg-fQ5XTg3ecjXjlXDSe8SFWQOsxTJTSONcvr-J7uub-XC6sCajep4qfKpAYmhBJopZpvlZO4hTY-1yOxposeFZm24A/s640/22711196_10209905683058003_675867704_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Le point </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">à</span></span> rabattre sous la main</span></span></i>. Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1ZxLwJepoDAqE6lY5VL7oa4ux4TOBpvWr89uKMMo7F6kL4S-iiMQdnvtG82rvsCghv6HebXFbM1VJE5k2l8Em31sfnwSSwhuBCWjaPEM1bUS6ZnWxJYMaDtfUKGvxWeiTtktEU9FgjE/s1600/22711479_10209905682697994_922815908_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK1ZxLwJepoDAqE6lY5VL7oa4ux4TOBpvWr89uKMMo7F6kL4S-iiMQdnvtG82rvsCghv6HebXFbM1VJE5k2l8Em31sfnwSSwhuBCWjaPEM1bUS6ZnWxJYMaDtfUKGvxWeiTtktEU9FgjE/s640/22711479_10209905682697994_922815908_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Le point </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">à</span></span> rabattre sous la main. </span></span></i></span></span>Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span><br />
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<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDs7mQwaiHuzOCBaDNOfkLbQFOQNmAfKcIZGLFRl6O2_ZwIO8CyYowZ-zedjRYuqirBPUnD6cNyMH67QHw6oFqFzqiRNCI1zn-3CokJ4Dway-04JJvTYcyYMhDKDJU9A26nwxqRNX4MI/s1600/DSC08609.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigDs7mQwaiHuzOCBaDNOfkLbQFOQNmAfKcIZGLFRl6O2_ZwIO8CyYowZ-zedjRYuqirBPUnD6cNyMH67QHw6oFqFzqiRNCI1zn-3CokJ4Dway-04JJvTYcyYMhDKDJU9A26nwxqRNX4MI/s640/DSC08609.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXkJse4WeWNzKtZ9vZ0ggkmJgtrAubuj-CfY1MXpdPNGzQULCnC42IXxq4rGO3rLun6jGNtz-5mpHbZRP3nmIAWwh9djNPHdvWM2M9iyTXEL697epq6wq-u-zB8_tGEG4cj741zcJgcM/s1600/Pellavvuori.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHXkJse4WeWNzKtZ9vZ0ggkmJgtrAubuj-CfY1MXpdPNGzQULCnC42IXxq4rGO3rLun6jGNtz-5mpHbZRP3nmIAWwh9djNPHdvWM2M9iyTXEL697epq6wq-u-zB8_tGEG4cj741zcJgcM/s640/Pellavvuori.JPG" width="640" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">Edit. Diderot'n kureliivin vuosiluvun korjaus vuodesta 1769 vuoteen 1776. <i>The date of pattern for Diderot's stays has been corrected from 1769 to 1776.</i></span></div>
Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-47243931826347988842017-05-11T10:12:00.001-07:002017-10-30T10:33:38.762-07:001780-luku: Palvelijattaren hame -- 1780's: A Petticoat for the Maid<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Yllätyksellinen kamlottihame</span></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">The Surprising Wool Petticoat</span></span></i></span></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span></i></span></span></h2>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPM8ZGSFSXrpcpHFOw8UTecQZ9j4LtIZrPFQER9RTyNHGydypKjbL03rytOs12MJttt7z791EShVCWMclgPzyK5Y0pznnogWItXIypu76bT4vlURkAuoDkAtJJeQejqnloM8soBCrvD9o/s1600/P1010073.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPM8ZGSFSXrpcpHFOw8UTecQZ9j4LtIZrPFQER9RTyNHGydypKjbL03rytOs12MJttt7z791EShVCWMclgPzyK5Y0pznnogWItXIypu76bT4vlURkAuoDkAtJJeQejqnloM8soBCrvD9o/s640/P1010073.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1700-luvun lopun villakamlottihame.<i> The late 18th century wool petticoat.</i> TMM 7027. Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span></i></span></span></h2>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Projektin
suunnitteluvaiheessa olin lähinnä pohtinut sitä, oliko sinisen hameen
kangas kenties palttina- vai toimikassidoksista, sillä se ei käynyt
selville
paperinuken tiedoista. Yllätys oli suuri, kun laatikosta paljastuneen
hameen kangas olikin kuviokudottua villaa! </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>While
planning this project I didn't really spare too much thought on this
object. I was mainly conserned to find out weather the fabric had a
twill or a plain weave. You can imagine my surprise, when we opened the
box and found this beautiful woolen pattern woven textile inside it!</i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi60qm7tC-UCtZ3p4YvKrKFyyKt1zV3JXM5ha9zN4EWSoHuqhaV5lR4n2QxZiAO-Dr0ONaIVi5pqgezGTLbA5G5Q9rg9a4GOUMOnL7uk4OXIcsaesuM59bQZ3cFWpRcAYp0klc0NOIxR2E/s1600/DSC07702.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi60qm7tC-UCtZ3p4YvKrKFyyKt1zV3JXM5ha9zN4EWSoHuqhaV5lR4n2QxZiAO-Dr0ONaIVi5pqgezGTLbA5G5Q9rg9a4GOUMOnL7uk4OXIcsaesuM59bQZ3cFWpRcAYp0klc0NOIxR2E/s640/DSC07702.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Sinisen villahameen kudottu kuvio ei näy paperinukessa. <i>The woven pattern on the blue wool petticoat is not visible on the paperdoll. </i>Samppa Lahdenperä & Turun museokeskus. Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Museolle hame on kulkeutunut vuonna 1903 Heinäjoen kylästä Yläneeltä. </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Se
on ommeltu hulpiosta hulpioon noin 46 cm levyisistä paloista ja sen
helman leveys on 228 cm. Hameen etupituus on 93,5 cm ja sen leveys on
laskostettu 75,5 cm pituiseen vyötärökaitaleeseen, jonka korkeus on 1,7
cm. Helmaa on jatkettu usealla kapealla kankaan palalla. Kangas on jäykähkön, mutta keveän tuntuista villakamlottia.</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">En
ole muistaakseni törmännyt hameeseen kirjallisuudessa. Suomessa on
säilynyt kuitenkin kuviokudotusta villadamastista valmistettuja
röijypukuja, joten ehkäpä tähänkin hameeseen on kuulunut aluperin
samasta kankaasta valmistettu yläosa.</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The petticoat came to the museum in 1903 from Heinäjoki, Yläne. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The
c. 46 cm wide pieces of fabrics are sewn from selvedge to selvedge,
forming a hem of 228 cm. It's 93,5 cm long at the cent<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">er</span> front, and the
width is pleated and gathered to a waist strip that is 75,5 cm long and
1,7 cm wide. The hem is leghtened with several narrow strips of fabric.
The feel of the fabric is a little stiff, but surprisingly light wool
camlet.</i></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>As
far as I can remember, I have not encountered this particular garment in
any publication I've read. Since few extant jacket and petticoat
outfits of pattern woven wool damask have been preserved here in
Finland, it might not be a stretch to think that originally this
petticoat had a matching top too.</i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgpQkgIdwPcs1xAkC9HtxUh-DV9UDWWcIYgj1fY7XFy7rQneJZ0e-6APHdAK1koQr6FaMuLBq8A8gfrfpcZu-lWnAlzMG2L1O9eq-G1RGGt2s8snmAxDxSDspigWxJVzIJgR9fasHmrE/s1600/P1010076+Kuvio+mittakaavassa.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzgpQkgIdwPcs1xAkC9HtxUh-DV9UDWWcIYgj1fY7XFy7rQneJZ0e-6APHdAK1koQr6FaMuLBq8A8gfrfpcZu-lWnAlzMG2L1O9eq-G1RGGt2s8snmAxDxSDspigWxJVzIJgR9fasHmrE/s640/P1010076+Kuvio+mittakaavassa.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Villadrouget'a? <i>Wool drouget? </i>TMM 7027. Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kankaan
alkuperä ei ole tiedossa, enkä muistanut etsiä sen nurjalta puolelta
jälkiä leimauksesta. Tiukkakierteisestä kampalangasta kudottussa
kankaassa oleva reliefikuvio on näkyvissä vain oikealla puolella. </span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The
origin of this particular textile is not known, and I did forget to
look for marks of stamping. The beatiful relief design is only visible
on the right side of this beautiful worsted fabric.</i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcqnV4htMKV1ff1jOSk-LOYRqFM29yq8dKElSSjnq54jCgdEqRey2ILWoDwI0MBw4AwN_pNWS_RwXedx5fJ2t0PlDKeayWw-LaLlPiDFvfNt_rKYPlKkdytivs_istrLfPwXVdrxT3JxE/s1600/P1010067+Hameen+palttinasidos+sis%25C3%25A4lt%25C3%25A4.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcqnV4htMKV1ff1jOSk-LOYRqFM29yq8dKElSSjnq54jCgdEqRey2ILWoDwI0MBw4AwN_pNWS_RwXedx5fJ2t0PlDKeayWw-LaLlPiDFvfNt_rKYPlKkdytivs_istrLfPwXVdrxT3JxE/s640/P1010067+Hameen+palttinasidos+sis%25C3%25A4lt%25C3%25A4.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nurjan puolen palttinasidos. <i>The plain weave as seen from the reverse side.</i> TMM 7027. Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Se muistuttaa läheisesti esimerkiksi Nordiska Museetin kokoelmissa olevan punaisen röijyn ja liivin kangasta... (Ks. alta löytyvät linkit) </span></span>Ja arvatkaapa mistä löytyi sinisenä samankaltaista kangasta? No tietenkin samasta paikasta eli Ruotsista! <i> </i></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The design of the pattern is very similar to the red fabrics used for a jacket and a "livstycke"...
(See the links at the end of this post) And just guess where one can
find an example of a similar textile in blue? From the same place of
course: Sweden!</i></span></span></div>
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</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://dms-cf-08.dimu.org/image/01VV4zQFUS?dimension=1200x1200" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="586" src="https://dms-cf-08.dimu.org/image/01VV4zQFUS?dimension=1200x1200" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Naisen liivi, "livstycke" 1800-luvun ensimmäiseltä neljännekseltä. <i>A woman's vest-like bodice, or, "livstycke", from the first quarter of the 19th century. </i><a href="https://dms-cf-08.dimu.org/image/01VV4zQFUS?dimension=1200x1200" target="_blank">Nordiska museet</a></span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kyseinen kangastyyppi kuuluu tyyliltään nk. <i>estoffer </i>-nimityken
alta löytyvien villakankaiden ryhmään. Nämä kuviokudotut villakankaat
olivat suosittuja rokoo-ajalla ja niitä kudottiin myös Ruotsissa.
Pylkkäsen mukaan näiden vaihtelevanlaatuisten ja kuvoisten kankaiden
nimityksiä olivat flanelli, kalminkki, kamlotti, raski, sajetti, sarssi,
satiini, sahlong, velpi ja droguet (tosin Pylkkänen ei kuvaile
suuremmin näiden kankaiden eroja). Ehkäpä viimeksi mainittu drouget
sopii parhaiten yhteen sinisen hameen kuosin kanssa, sillä
samantyyppiseen kuvioon kudottuja silkkikankaita löytyy mm. Turun
museokeskuksen ja Nordiska museetin kokoelmista.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nordiskan
antamien tietojen mukaan tämä kyseinen kangastyyppi tunnettiin
Ruotsissa ja esimerkiksi Taalainmaalla myös Norgetygin nimellä. Kangasta
pidettiin siis norjalaisena kauppatavarana, mutta mahdollisesti osa
niistä oli alunperin valmistettu Englannissa ja tuotu Ruotsiin Norjan
kautta. Kansannaisten asuissa tämänkaltaiset villakankaat olivat
ilmeisesti vielä verrattain harvinaisia 1700-luvulla, mutta ne
yleistyivät 1800-luvun taitteen jälkeen.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The type of the fabric here would have been labeled under sc. </i>estoffer<i>.
This seems to have been a sort of an umberella term for patterned
woolen fabrics. These were very popular during the rococo and also
produced in Sweden. According to Pylkkänen, the quality of these fabrics
varied and they were known under such different names as flannel,
camlet, satin, shalong, and droguet to name a few (although she does ot
go into too much detail on the distinction between these). Perhaps the
last mentioned droguet fits best with the pattern on the blue petticoat,
since silk<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> droguet's</span> with similar designs can be found from both Turku Museum
Centres and Nordiska museet's collections.</i></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>According
to Nordiska, this particular type of fabric was also known as
"Norgetyg" in many areas of Sweden, including Dalarna. It was considered
to be a Norwegian commodity - but it might have originally been an
English product that was sold to Sweden via Norway. Apparently it's use
was still relatively rare in common womens garments during the 18th
century, but it came more common after the turn of the 19th century.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.finna.fi/Cover/Show?id=musketti_tmk.M20%3ATMM6094&index=0&size=large&w=1200&h=1200" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://www.finna.fi/Cover/Show?id=musketti_tmk.M20%3ATMM6094&index=0&size=large&w=1200&h=1200" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Yksityiskohta 1770 - 1780-luvuille ajoitetusta solkikengästä, jonka päällinen on silkkidroguet'a. <i>A detail of the silk droguet buckle shoe, dated to the 1770' - 1780's. </i>TMM 6094. Kuva: Finna</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kangas voi siis olla kotoisin niinkin kaukaa kuin Englannista. <i>Estoff</i>-villakankaita
sai kuitenkin valmistaa kauppakollegion luvalla myös Suomessa vuoden
1762 jälkeen. Kaksi vuotta luvan myöntämisen jälkeen kisälli Henrik
Eklund esitti Turussa näytekappaleet sinisestä ja mustasta raskista ja
kamlotista. Kutomon toiminta oli suurimmillaan sen alkuvuosina.
Eklundin kutomo joutui lopettamaan toimintansa joskus vuoden 1780
paikkeilla taloudellisten vaikeuksien vuoksi. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>This
being said, the fabric could have been exported from as far away as
England, but the Board of Trades did grant a permission to produce </i>estoff<i>-fabrics</i> <i>in Finland after 1762. Two years later, a journeyman Henrik Eklund presented two swatches of blue and black </i>rask <i>and</i> <i>camlet
for approval. The production rates were the highest during the early
years, but around 1780's Eklunds manufactory closed due to financial
troubles.</i></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYCfIEFbNPaOxZoWVaQ8g-TzDefGSxxNV1XANCU2rdt5aYzsuSTLXJJ0D1-pQwS9ICYhTJf04LK4b1N_O0wsSF361Qu3gcl-uD1bAm-4jk9lsHfKfjWuVZLGJNsEupYJmI8hF00smGaJc/s1600/nackros_gray.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYCfIEFbNPaOxZoWVaQ8g-TzDefGSxxNV1XANCU2rdt5aYzsuSTLXJJ0D1-pQwS9ICYhTJf04LK4b1N_O0wsSF361Qu3gcl-uD1bAm-4jk9lsHfKfjWuVZLGJNsEupYJmI8hF00smGaJc/s400/nackros_gray.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1700-luvun
silkkidroguet'n uudistuotantoa. Alkuperäinen kangaspala on
todennäköisesti peräisin Johan Anders Meurmanin silkkikutomosta, joka oli
aktiivisimmillaa 1760 - 85. <i>A reproduction of an 18th century silk
droguet. The original textile was likely produced in Stockholm in the
silk manufactory of Johan Anders Meurman, that was active from 1760 -
85. </i>Duran Textiles: http://www.durantextiles.com/siden/nackros_grey.html </span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuviokudottujen
villakankaiden kuviot seurasivat useimmiten aikakauden muotisilkkien
kukkamalleja ja toimivat ehkä eräänlaisina kukkasilkkien korvikkeina
pienporvariston- ja kansannaisille. Tutkimus vihjaa, että säätyläistöä
palvelleet piiat sovelsivat ajoittain säätyläispuvun piirteitä omaan
pukuunsa. </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hameen sopii siksi hienosta materiaalistaan huolimatta myös säätyläisnaisen piian vaatevaraston osaksi.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The
designs in these pattern woven wool fabrics followed the fashionable
silks of the day and in a way substituted the forbidden silks in the
wardrobes of the common women and the women of the petite bourgeoisie.
Research suggests, that the servant women who served the upper classes
sometimes adapted features of the upper class dress into their own wardrobes. </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Thus, this particular petticoat is not out of place in a gentlewoman's maids wardrobe.</i></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqt0e1bmGAaLAriyA4iys3YP9srsNApcq-IrqikIVAow-zAx74moGgfTLqt_NA2M9y_5ziYx7b8wSHGbmU_VLbaEUDS1WsfPR_U3vGTm7Ysj3ArQWkpHZLzrTBvX8r2yO2hio_rU4grAI/s1600/P1010064+Vy%25C3%25B6t%25C3%25A4r%25C3%25B6+sis%25C3%25A4lt%25C3%25A4.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqt0e1bmGAaLAriyA4iys3YP9srsNApcq-IrqikIVAow-zAx74moGgfTLqt_NA2M9y_5ziYx7b8wSHGbmU_VLbaEUDS1WsfPR_U3vGTm7Ysj3ArQWkpHZLzrTBvX8r2yO2hio_rU4grAI/s640/P1010064+Vy%25C3%25B6t%25C3%25A4r%25C3%25B6+sis%25C3%25A4lt%25C3%25A4.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Vyötärökaitale sisäpuolelta katsottuna. <i>The waist strip as seen from the reverse side. </i>TMM 7027. Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwVtFsjzOskd_874L70Z-QZxFZqA5DD-m7H9PSajkdbZ56hZF4krmV_zyE3rYZjSGhCEGLWTIajEuCM0d-gx0vzdKaH6dY2fhOVtQ-0X0RLTxeQSudbLBQE6BsSbO_G5mrIMKHWDa7DXc/s1600/P1010043+Helman+huolittelu.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwVtFsjzOskd_874L70Z-QZxFZqA5DD-m7H9PSajkdbZ56hZF4krmV_zyE3rYZjSGhCEGLWTIajEuCM0d-gx0vzdKaH6dY2fhOVtQ-0X0RLTxeQSudbLBQE6BsSbO_G5mrIMKHWDa7DXc/s640/P1010043+Helman+huolittelu.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Helmaa on pidennetty useilla paloilla ja huoliteltu kapealla nauhalla. <i>The hem has been lenghtened with several strips of fabric and neatened with a narrow strip. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3AjgXMFknDqS_qlZcB_rCDYcK6WKMdg42yfJFYa8DwyP1NZ6aY70lMMt69T_i9wKg1gbo7GajExlSnyaDtobA8l1Hc14WSqJCscCyqTpSd0apk0OYAGJZdaUcNnJYVm-rY72GSUA9xL0/s1600/P1010068+Saumoja+mittakaavassa.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3AjgXMFknDqS_qlZcB_rCDYcK6WKMdg42yfJFYa8DwyP1NZ6aY70lMMt69T_i9wKg1gbo7GajExlSnyaDtobA8l1Hc14WSqJCscCyqTpSd0apk0OYAGJZdaUcNnJYVm-rY72GSUA9xL0/s640/P1010068+Saumoja+mittakaavassa.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Ompeluun käyätetty paksuhko lanka vaikuttaa pellavalta. <i>The rather coarse sewing thread seems to be linen. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7AJ-UatIYRkKMzs2TkfZZqY_SUME24vnZ8-RLZqpetuh8H_qHSekO_u2l0TkfeTrFs-KJXGKNXSgnY5QYj4Es08AR96wVduxGZa0cCuWDhsAYqHLDrmXWnRF4NMchB1I_ItU-6MOdurE/s1600/P1010036+Lenkit.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7AJ-UatIYRkKMzs2TkfZZqY_SUME24vnZ8-RLZqpetuh8H_qHSekO_u2l0TkfeTrFs-KJXGKNXSgnY5QYj4Es08AR96wVduxGZa0cCuWDhsAYqHLDrmXWnRF4NMchB1I_ItU-6MOdurE/s640/P1010036+Lenkit.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hame kiinnitetään vasemmalta puolelta edestä. <i>The petticoat closes on the left front side. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lähteet / Sources:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Tiina
Kuokkanen, 2014. <i>Vaatetus identiteetin
ilmentäjänä – Piikojen pukeutuminen 1700-luvun Oulussa</i>. Pro Gradu
-tutkielma. Oulun yliopisto. (<i>Dress as an expression of identity - Serving womens dress in 18th century Oulu</i>)</span></span></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Riitta
Pylkkänen, 1982. <i>Säätyläisnaisten
pukeutuminen Suomessa 1700-luvulla. </i>Suomen muinaismuistoyhdistyksen
aikakausikirja, 84. Helsinki. (<i>The Dress of Gentlewomen in 18th century Finland</i>)</span></span></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lou Taylor, 1973. " An Eighteenth century boy's suit." Costume, 7:1, 38 - 41, DOI: 10.1179/cos.1973.7.1.38 http://dx.doi.org/10.1179/cos.1973.7.1.38</span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">(13.5.2017)</span></span><br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023079160/troja (9.5.2017)</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023537039/livstycke (9.5.2017)</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023314468/livstycke?i=7&aq=text%3A%22norgetyg%22 (9.5.2017)</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023314468/livstycke?i=7&aq=text%3A%22norgetyg%22 (9.5.2017)</span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">https://www.finna.fi/Record/musketti_tmk.M20:TMM6094</span></span></div>
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Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-45424037074710366322017-05-08T08:23:00.000-07:002017-10-30T13:06:26.119-07:001780-luku: Palvelustytön ja säätyläisnaisen nutut -- 1780's: The maids and the mistresses short gowns<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kaksi nuttua</span></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">, yksi kullekin säädylle</span></span></span></h2>
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<i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Two short gowns, one for each order </span></span></span></i></h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsmsSSAV_pKaRPjy5wN5txFQv6CP3nsztpT8SuZpUvtdEiMASjIBpF650xNrkbAHiosJPKwLBVrNAzyXhHF_54mwwO7fDSdAWof4Q_uNTillWMhdILtWSQD7ODTRW78u6iZO7xJpnLXD0/s1600/P1010056+Koko+komeus.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsmsSSAV_pKaRPjy5wN5txFQv6CP3nsztpT8SuZpUvtdEiMASjIBpF650xNrkbAHiosJPKwLBVrNAzyXhHF_54mwwO7fDSdAWof4Q_uNTillWMhdILtWSQD7ODTRW78u6iZO7xJpnLXD0/s640/P1010056+Koko+komeus.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Vadelmanpunainen nuttu, sininen villamekko ja nahkakengät Kalastajankadun tekstiilikonservaattorin pöydällä. <i>The rasberry red short gown, the wool petticoat and the leather shoes. Textile conservation in Kalastajankatu, Turku. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jokainen
rekonstruktio alkaa tutkimuksesta. Hienointa on, mikäli objekti on
säilynyt, mutta joskus työn joutuu tekemään toisenlaisten lähteiden,
kuten kuvien, fragmenttien, tutkimuskirjallisuuden ja näihin liittyvän
tietotaidon soveltamisen kautta. Tämän
Paperinukke-projektiksi ristimäni haasteen lähtökohdat ovat siinä
mielessä onnelliset, että esikuvina toimivat kokonaiset säilyneet
esineet, joten mahdollisia valmistustekniikoita ja materiaaleja ei
tarvitse hakea kirjallisuudesta. Toisin sanoen: vaatteet toimivat
projektin pääasiallisena lähteenä ja sisältävät kaiken tarvittavan
tiedon. Huhtikuussa
minulla oli ilo ja etuoikeus päästä kurkistamaan Turun museokeskusen
varastoon, jossa paperinukessa esiteltyjä vaatteita ja asusteita
säilytetään. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Every
reconstruction project begins with research. In an ideal situation, the
object is preserved. In other cases you have to piece the object you
are attempting to reconstruct from secondary sources, such as images,
textile fragments, research articles and books and by the practical
knowhow available. This starting point for my "Project: Paperdoll" is
rather ideal, since the garments actually exist and are preserved. This
makes many things easier, since I do not have to pour through volumes of
research in order to find the appropriate materials and techniques.
Plainly speaking: the garments are the source and all the information is
there. Last
April I had the joy and privilege to peak inside the collection storage
room in Turku Museum Centre, where they keep the garments and
accsessories that are shown in the the paperdoll. </i> </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Nuttu vai röijy?</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Is it a short gown or a jacket?</i></b></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://dms-cf-07.dimu.org/image/012uN1boRTUL?dimension=1200x1200" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://dms-cf-07.dimu.org/image/012uN1boRTUL?dimension=1200x1200" width="289" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Nuttu 1770 - 1790.<a href="https://digitaltmuseum.se/021015511371/troja-kofta-kvinnodrakt-vastergotland-skovdetrakten-ca-1770-1790-ylle-kamlott"> Nordiska Museet.</a></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Koska nukkeen kuuluu kaksi nuttua, päätin tarkastella niitä samanaikaisesti, vaikka suunnitteilla oleva rekonstruktio koskeekin vain punaista nuttua. Suomessa käytettyjen ja säilyneiden jakkumaisten vaatteiden terminologia ei ole aina selvää ja joskus käytetyt termit vaihtelevat niin tutkimuskirjallisuudessa kuin kokoelmatiedoissa. Alla olevat vaatteet on nimetty Riitta Pylkkäsen <i>Säätyläisnaisten pukeutuminen Suomessa 1700-luvulla</i> (1982) nutuiksi. Aikalaislähteissä kyseisen termin ruotsinkielinen vastine on "kofta" tai "kåfta". Kuitenkin punaista vaatetta saatetaan nimittään etenkin kansallispukuja koskevassa kirjallisuudessa röijyksi. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nutun ja röijyn ero löytyy Pylkkästä mukaillen leikkauksesta: nuttu leikataan kahdesta yhtenäisestä etu- ja takakappaleesta, jotka ommellaan yhteen keskitakasaumasta ja sivuilta niin, että yhtenäinen sauma kulkee hihansuusta helmaan. Röijynä pidettävissä jakuissa sen sijaan on erilliset istutetut hihat ja olkasaumat. Molemmat vaatteet saattavat näyttää kauempaa hyvin samankaltaisilta. Aikakauden räätäleiden voi kuitenkin olettaa tehneen selvän eron näiden jakkutyyppien välillä, sillä vaadittavien mittojen määrä oli röijyssä suurempi kuin nutussa. Nuttu oli lähinnä rokokooajan säätyläisnaisten arkivaate, jonka hienommat versiot kelpasivat myös juhlaan. Röijyä pidettiin vielä tuolloin kansanomaisena vaatteena. 1700-luvun lopulla uusklassismin ja luonnollisuuden ihailun myötä röijyt ilmestyivät myös säätyläisnaisten vaatevarastoihin ja perukirjoihin Kustaa III:n nimeä kantavalla aikakaudella. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://dms-cf-06.dimu.org/image/01TzsZpnvB?dimension=1200x1200" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="448" src="https://dms-cf-06.dimu.org/image/01TzsZpnvB?dimension=1200x1200" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> <span style="font-size: small;">1700-luvun loppupuolen ruotsalaisessa kuviokudotussa villakamlottiröijyssä on istutetut hihat. <i>The pattern woven wool jacket from the latter part of the 18th century Sweden has separately cut and set sleeves</i>. <a href="https://digitaltmuseum.se/011023079160/troja">Nordiska museet.</a></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Since there are two sc. short short gowns in the set, I decided to take a look at them both, although I've only planned on attempting to reconstruct the red one of the two. The terminology of the extant jacket type garment in Finland is not always clear and can vary in different publications and collections. I've followed the terminology used by the Finnish costume historian Riitta Pylkkänen in </i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Säätyläisnaisten pukeutuminen Suomessa 1700-luvulla (The Dress of Gentlewomen in 18th century Finland) (1982) <i>and use the term short gown in translation. The swedish word in contemporary records is "kofta" or "kåfta". Despite this, the red garment is often referred to as a jacket ("tröija" in Swedish and "röijy" in Finnish) in the litterature conserning folkdress. </i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>There seems to have been a rather clear distinction between the two, though: the short gowns in Finland were cut with two undivided front- and back pieces. These were sewn together at the cent<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">er</span> back seam and at the side seams that run from the sleeve opening to the hem. The jackets called "röijy" had separately set sleeves and shoulder seams. Though the look and shape of these garments could be very simialr, the distinction between the two was most likely clear to the tailors of the day, since the amount of measurments required to make a "nuttu" or a "röijy" differed considerably. During the rococo the short gown/nuttu was an everyday garment for the gentlewomen and the finer ones could also be used on festive occasions. The jacket/röijy was considered to be a commoners garment until the last quarter of the century. At this time, the neoclassical ideals and admiration of the natural gave the common jacket/röijy a boost and it landed into gentlewomen's wardrobes and wills during the epoch named after king Gustav III.</i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Punainen nuttu</b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><b>The red short gown </b></i> </span></span> </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmNZPGPpw3_4AujwCkLXkr2DDoK2RfoTOiyq4LENFLJaQgB5KI0dIzmI7ltLNsTeT6FQ9_DcHUyfzwfeXjbTfLXvsHj2SJ-lU1AEMrjKDs86kA9-zEhRLtxjxtM9ydqpo3C3WHehI3J9s/s1600/P1010082.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmNZPGPpw3_4AujwCkLXkr2DDoK2RfoTOiyq4LENFLJaQgB5KI0dIzmI7ltLNsTeT6FQ9_DcHUyfzwfeXjbTfLXvsHj2SJ-lU1AEMrjKDs86kA9-zEhRLtxjxtM9ydqpo3C3WHehI3J9s/s640/P1010082.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">1780-luvun nutun etupuoli. Etuosan valkoiset langat ovat ilmeisesti myöhempi lisäys. Nuttu on suljettu todennäköisesti neuloin. <i>The front of the 1780's short gown. The white threads seem to be a later additon. The garment was most likely pinned suht with needels.</i> TMK 6120. Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Vadelmanpunainen
nuttu on peräisin Salon Uskelasta ja se on ajoitettu 1780-luvulle ja saapunut museolle 1899.
Tekstiilikonservaattori Tanja Huikurin kurkistus mikroskooppiin vahvisti
vadelmanpunaisen kankaan kuteen ja loimen olevan villaa.
Tiukkakierteisestä langasta kudottu palttinasidoksinen kangas on nk. villakamlottia, jota
kansannaiset käyttivät usein arvokkaimpien liivien, nuttujen ja röijyjen
materiaalina. Kyseinen röijy on myös Salon naisen kansallispuvun röijyn
esikuva. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The
rasberry red short gown comes from Salo Uskela and it's dated to
1780's. With a peak in to the microscope, textile conservator Tanja
Huikuri could confirm that both the weft and the warp are wool. The
tightly spun plainwoven fabric is called "kamlott" in contemporary
sources. It was a valued and popular choice of fabric for bodices,
jackets and short gowns among the common women in Finland at the time.
This short gown is also the model for the woman's folk dress in Salo.</i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVP_s11D2yncN1NMWjolaQC-XA2e2BgZMtB4KlJQEsx4CVo6e_jov_bL4vR_trbE2IRKYKgp4QBgyQWDHErGNRcjqfADWLAPW7-lN38LSb3kvr3HVuag7Nd4A9jmWwCpE1Df-RbeQzpI/s1600/P1010086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVP_s11D2yncN1NMWjolaQC-XA2e2BgZMtB4KlJQEsx4CVo6e_jov_bL4vR_trbE2IRKYKgp4QBgyQWDHErGNRcjqfADWLAPW7-lN38LSb3kvr3HVuag7Nd4A9jmWwCpE1Df-RbeQzpI/s640/P1010086.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kimonohihaisessa nutussa ei ole lainkaan olkasaumoja eikä erillistä liitoskohtaa hihan ja vaatteen välillä. <i>The kimono sleeved short gown does not have any seams at the shoulders or between the sleeves and the body of the garment. </i>TMK 6120. </span><br /><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5EMFh9LwalmgotRyPq42UnFIOX15rxsLHkcLQgfcsTAseWE6x_bdFi6y882FRkgFFgBHJTcnqohjKZh0RjXFAjLybw4iqjh7GZjjdOCN_to_txkweGcDkg6r6Leaov849AWyE4etyUo/s1600/P1010088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY5EMFh9LwalmgotRyPq42UnFIOX15rxsLHkcLQgfcsTAseWE6x_bdFi6y882FRkgFFgBHJTcnqohjKZh0RjXFAjLybw4iqjh7GZjjdOCN_to_txkweGcDkg6r6Leaov849AWyE4etyUo/s640/P1010088.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nutun selässä on haarukkaleikkaus, jonka ansiosta sivusaumat asettuvat selän puolelle. <i>The back has a fork-shaped cut that moves the sides seams towards the back. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMD6Vms8FqTaKMvJycnxlFEtEAGJni69TtlP-euC0aYH25vu0UMM2SrpBoG_C_cCJecuQu7nRV2uzeNJV9AeJT6uZbxyvS_PVsCalUvWTp4FmVleIYxfMDNTeSp8oMkKcuBMHlIdLNGCk/s1600/P1010115+sis%25C3%25A4kuva+2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMD6Vms8FqTaKMvJycnxlFEtEAGJni69TtlP-euC0aYH25vu0UMM2SrpBoG_C_cCJecuQu7nRV2uzeNJV9AeJT6uZbxyvS_PVsCalUvWTp4FmVleIYxfMDNTeSp8oMkKcuBMHlIdLNGCk/s640/P1010115+sis%25C3%25A4kuva+2.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Nutun vuorikangas on vaaleaa ja karkeahkoa kasvikuituista palttinakangasta, todennäköisesti pellavaa, hamppukangasta tai näiden sekoitetta. Takaosan helmakörtit ja sivukiilat oli vuorattu ohuemmalla kankaalla kuin muu nuttu. <i>The lining appears to be made of a coarser plain woven plant fibers, possibly linen, hemp or a blend of each. The back skirts of the hem and the side gore were lined with a finer fabric. </i>TMK 6120<i>. </i></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vadelmanpunainen villakamlotti on tiheäsidoksinen, mutta langan laatu vaihtelee paikoitellen. Huolitteluun on käytetty osin tai täysin valkaistua lankaa, joka on todennäköisesti pellavaa. Kuitenkin osa saumoista on silmämääräisesti tarkasteltuna ommeltu erivärisella, tumman rusehtavalla langalla. Se, onko langan tumma sävy värjäyksen tai esimerkiksi likaantumisen tulos, jäi arvoitukseksi. <i>The rasberry red wool is densly woven, but the quality of the thread varies here and there. The sewing thred used for finnishing appears to have been partially or complitely bleached linen. But, a closer inspection reveals that some of the seams have been sewn with a dark brownish thread. But, are they dyed or just smudged with dirt?</i> <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">TMK 6120. Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Helmakörtti vuoripuolelta kuvattuna. <i>The skirt of the hem pictured from the inside. </i>TMK 6120. Kuva / Photo:neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Sininen nuttu</b></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>The blue short gown</i></b></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">TMK 15284. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sininen
silkkunuttu edustaa myöhempää muotisuuntausta ja se on ajoitettu 1780 -
1790-luvuille. Sen vaihtelevan levyinen raitakuosi on kauniisti
hohtavaa silkkiä ja vaate on silmämääräisesti tarkasteltuna erittäin
hyvässä kunnossa. On melkein mahdotonta uskoa, että sillä on ikää yli
200 vuotta. Kokoelmiin se on liitetty 1958. Ompelujälki on siistimpää kuin punaisessa nutussa, joka saatta osin johtua ohuemmaista ompelumateriaaleista.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The
other short gown represents a later style and it's dated to 1780's -
1790's. The fabric is very fine with a varying woven striped and still
retains much of it's original shine. It's almost mindboggling to imagine
that the garment is really over 200 years old. It was added to the collections in 1958. The stitching looks neater in comparison to the red garments - perhaps due to the finer materials used here.</i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Lyhytehlmainen nuttu on vuorattu raidallisella kasvikuituisella palttinakankaalla. <i>The short skirted short gown is lined with a plainwoven vegetable fiber fabric. </i>TMK 15284. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Myös tässä 1700-luvun lopun nutussa on muodikas haarukkaleikkaus ja kimonohihat. <i>This short gown has similar kimono sleeves and the fashinable fork-like back as the red one.</i> TMK 15284. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hihaa on jatkettu erillisellä palasella. Tämä viittaa todennäköisesti siihen, että silkkikankaan alkuperäinen leveys ei ole riittänyt yhtenäisesti leikattuihin hihoihin. <i>The sleeve has been continued with an additional piece of fabric. This suggests that the original width of the fabric was not wide enough for the garments sleeves to be cut as one with body.</i> TMK 15284. </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sivukiila levittää muutoin niukkalinjaisen nutun helmaa vyötärön alapuolella. Kiilan vuori on ommeltu yliluottelupistolla päältä päin. <i>The side gores widen the hem below the waistline. The lining is pieced and stitched from the right side with visible stitching. </i>TMK 15284. Kuva / Photo: neulansimanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-38583364320020018572017-05-08T03:47:00.000-07:002017-05-12T14:00:09.329-07:00Paperinukke ja kokoelmat -- The paper doll and the collections<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Projekti: 1780-l.: Inspiraatio </span></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Project 1780's: The inspiration</span></span></i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kustavilaistyylisen paperinuken kansi. Samppa Lahdenperä ja Turun museokeskus. <i>The cover of the Gustavian styled paperdoll. Samppa Lahdenperä and Turku Museum Centre. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kustavilaistyylinen paperinukke</span></b></div>
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<i><b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">A paper doll in the Gustavian style of the late 18th century </span></b></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Uuden ompeluprojektini inspiraationa toimii aiemmassa julkaisussa mainittu Sampp</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">a Lahdenperän piirtämä paperinukke. Tässä osiossa esittelen hieman sitä ja sen sisältöä, sillä sain luvan julkaista siitä pieniresoluutioisia kuvia. Tässä kirjoituksessa esittelen paperinukkea ja tarkastelen sen tarjoamaa tietoa.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Paperinukessa
olevien tietojen mukaan se julkaistiin vuonna 1995. Nukkesettiä myytin ainakin Turun linnan museokauppa Fataburin henkilökunnan muistin mukaan vielä 2009 - 2010, jonka jälkeen sitä ei ole tilattu lisää.</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">
Kuvituksesta vastannut Samppa Lahdenperä on ammatiltaan
pukusuunnittelija-lavastaja. Hän on suunnitellut teatteripuvustuksia
etenkin historiallisiin näytelmiin ja myös satunäytelmiin, oopperaan ja
musikaaleihin ja televisioon. Opiskellessan Helsingin yliopistossa
taidehistoriaa ja näytelmäkirjallisuutta, Lahdenperä työskenteli myös
kuvittajana.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Huom! Paperinukke on suojattu kokonaisuudessan tekijänoikeuksilla. Kuvia ei saa jakaa ilman Turun museokeskuksen ja blogin pitäjän lupaa.</b> </span> </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Turun museokeskus. <i>Turku Museum Centre. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>As I've mentioned before, the inspiration behind my new sewing project comes from the paperdoll set drawn by Samppa Lahdenperä. I'm happy to tell you that I recieved a permission to share some low resolution photos of this object. In this post I'll introduce you to the object at hand and take a look at the information it can give.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>In my copy, the publishing is dated to 1995. After asking around, I found that the paperdoll set was sold out around 2009 - 2010 in the museum shop Fatabur in Turku Castle. The illustrator Samppa Lahdenperä has had a long career as a costumer and a set-designer. He has designed costumes for stage and screen, and especially for both historical and fairytale plays, the opera and musicals. While studying art history and drama at the University of Helsinki, Lahdenperä worked as an illustrator in different projects. </i></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Obs! The paperdoll set is copyrighted material. I'll kindly ask that you would not share the photo's without the permission of Turku Museum Centre and the blogger.</i> </span><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span></i></b></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMxRZErZmKanphU07Y_-Mic2BuSyWGptGyJYSzk__UtzW4DZpAbdmSAvS3Rxqhq8aUXbAllf9zOo69QGAMYSPW2w5YNhxPWzNobCTgZyAWtadQ-ZJ4IerrSwsrBAowrUlo5qX8SxrvUg/s1600/DSC07724.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjMxRZErZmKanphU07Y_-Mic2BuSyWGptGyJYSzk__UtzW4DZpAbdmSAvS3Rxqhq8aUXbAllf9zOo69QGAMYSPW2w5YNhxPWzNobCTgZyAWtadQ-ZJ4IerrSwsrBAowrUlo5qX8SxrvUg/s320/DSC07724.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turun museokeskus. Samppa Lahdenperä. <i>Turku Museum Centre. Samppa Lahdenperä. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Paperinukke</b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>The Paperdoll</b></span></i><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Paperinuken
sisältö muodostuu A3 kokoisesta kuoresta ja kahtia taitetusta
paperinukkearkista, joka sisältää säätyläisrouvan ja palvelustytön hahmot sekä
asukokonaisuudet. Lisäksi kokonaisuuteen kuuluu suomeksi ja ruotsiksi
kirjoitettu tekstiliite, jossa
hahmojen maailmaa on elävöitetty fiktiivisillä otteilla luutnantinrouva
Eleonora Finckenbergin päiväkirjasta. Myös esikuvina käytettyjen
pukujen kokoelmatiedot löytyvät tekstiliitteestä.</span></span><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b> </b></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><br /></b></span></i>
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">The paperdoll set is combined of an A3 size envelope and a folded paperdoll set, that includes the two figurines with their garb. In addition, there is a text sheat which includes fictitious excerpts from the diary of lieutenants wife Eleonora Finckenberg. It also includes information about the referenced garments form the collections of Turku Museum Centre. </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></span></i>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwtknKsSyVHnlTPgEHOvvMD0a0HPZNrie73x5PUuy4BuPX1s803BV9oV_pg6p-vQ9jBT01GDe8809klNcbMSAWCy7p5D-V-XK-H69hQnlT7Y5fM0uIYb7xK0qanETNi1MaD4e45r_XBJA/s1600/DSC07700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwtknKsSyVHnlTPgEHOvvMD0a0HPZNrie73x5PUuy4BuPX1s803BV9oV_pg6p-vQ9jBT01GDe8809klNcbMSAWCy7p5D-V-XK-H69hQnlT7Y5fM0uIYb7xK0qanETNi1MaD4e45r_XBJA/s640/DSC07700.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Samppa Lahdenperä ja Turun museokeskus. <i>Samppa Lahdenperä and Turku Museum Centre. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansimanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHxmAKc98vNW3PDDG5LczzxsI9yJIAq0k3ROvgFVBzXDvB235iNrmsZmAHoxc0Mot6-0Y7PH0suEWoNEvIKvtCnsjmPEk4172ZtwEcQ37ZiSuUe1sQymrIZ8G8UwO-jJ6kkNX111BLPwM/s1600/DSC07698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHxmAKc98vNW3PDDG5LczzxsI9yJIAq0k3ROvgFVBzXDvB235iNrmsZmAHoxc0Mot6-0Y7PH0suEWoNEvIKvtCnsjmPEk4172ZtwEcQ37ZiSuUe1sQymrIZ8G8UwO-jJ6kkNX111BLPwM/s640/DSC07698.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Teksti: Riitta Kajala ja Leena Koivumäki. Turun museokeskus. <i>Text: Riitta Kajala and Leena Koivumäki. Turku Museum Centre. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Palvelusneito Annan asuvaihtoehtoihin kuuluu vain yksi vaatekerta asusteineen: nahkakengät, villasukat, aluspaita, alushame, myssy, pellavahuivi, sininen villahame, villanuttu, pellavaesiliina ja kudottu villahuivi. Annan niukka puvusto saattaa luoda kuvan menneisyydestä, jossa palvelijat omistivat vain yhden vaatekerran. Tutkimustieto antaa asiasta kuitenkin hieman erilaisen kuvan: sen mukaan kaupunkien palvelijoilla oli usein yhtä lukuisa vaatevarasto kuin aikakauden talonpoikaisemännillä. Esimerkiksi oululaisten palvelijattarien perukirjoihin on merkitty keskimäärin viisi puolihametta ja kahdesta kolmeen röijyä. Röijyn sijaan osa saattoi omistaa nutun. Se kuinka hyvin Oulun kaupungin tiedot ovat sovellettavissa Länsi-Suomen alueelle tai Turun kaupunkiin selviää ainoastaan vertailevalla tutkimuksella.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>The servant girl Anna's garment options include only one set of clothes, including accessories: leather shoes, woolen stockings, a shift, a petticoat, a cap, a linen scarf, a blue wool skirt, woolen jacket like short gown, a linen apron and a woven wool shawl. This might lead you to belive that servants and common women only had one set of clothing. However, research suggests, that many servant women in towns had as many garments listed in their wills as their contemporary peasant housewives. For example, the servant women in Oulu owend approximately 5 petticoats and around 2 - 3 jackets. Those who did not own jackets usually had a short gown instead. The question how well these statistics correspond with the situation in Western Finland and the city of Turku can only be revealed by further research.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i> </i> </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfzuC4GappXWnK0jJ8SGThFcd1QudZyzgXWVjQrEL36QU-xpc33IHu_9QJDEDUMRqU0XHIutv2u02JhAwNIb2giGDnq578tbHOWmv7_7ILT0LdLtf-pgwnqvjrJ5TYBW5NRMxfpJ6Q0E/s1600/DSC07701.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfzuC4GappXWnK0jJ8SGThFcd1QudZyzgXWVjQrEL36QU-xpc33IHu_9QJDEDUMRqU0XHIutv2u02JhAwNIb2giGDnq578tbHOWmv7_7ILT0LdLtf-pgwnqvjrJ5TYBW5NRMxfpJ6Q0E/s640/DSC07701.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuvassa näkyvät villashaali (TMK) , vadelmanpunainen nuttu (TMK 6120), sininen villahame (TMK 7027) ja nahkakengät (TMK 2467) löytyvät Turun museokeskuksen kokoelmista. Samppa Lahdenperä ja Turun museokeskus. <i>The woolen shawl, the rasberry red short gown, the blue wool petticoat and the leather shoes can be found in the collections of Turku Museum Centre. Samppa Lahdenperä and Turku Museum Centre. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kartanon rouvan monipuolinen puvusto sen sijaan tuo hyvin esille säätyläisnaisten monipuoliset pukeutumisen mahdollisuudet. Rouvan hahmo on puettu lyhythihaiseen aluspaitaan, röyhelöhelmaiseen alushameeseen, pellavasukkiin, solkikenkiin ja kureliiviin. Monipuoliseen pukuvalikoimaan lukeutuvat silkkinuttu ja kaulahuivi, kirjailtu silkkihame ja esiliina, vanutikattu silkkihame eli tupi (ruots. s<i>tubb), </i>sininen englantilainen silkkipuku, phaeton, viitta, vaihtokengät ja silkkipuku, ratsastuspuku ja kaksi erilaista hattua. Todellisuudessa säätyläisnaisten arkipukeutuminen ei välttämättä eronnut suuresti palvelusväen naisten tai porvariston pukeutumisesta. Puolihame ja nuttu tai jakku toimivat yhtä lailla naisväen arkisena vaatepartena säätyyn katsomatta. Suurimman eron tekivät materiaalit, sillä esimerkiksi silkin käyttö oli rahvaan naisilta kielletty sellaisia asusteita kuin huiveja ja päähineitä lukuun ottamatta.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>The gentlewoman is dressed in a short sleeved shift, an under petticoat with a ruffled edge, buckled shoes and stays. The diverse selection of clothes include a silk short gown and a scarf, an embroidered silk skirt and an apron, a quilted satin skirt (in Swedish </i>stubb)<i>, an English gown, a paheton, a cape, silk pumps and another silk dress plus a riding gown and two different hats. In everyday life, the dress of gentlewomen and their maids or the bourgeoise women did not always differ greatly. A petticoat and a short gown or a jacket made up the basis of women's everyday wardrobe regardless of class. The distinction lay more in the materials than the shape of the clothes, since certain luxury fabrics like silk were reserved only for the upper classes. Common women were only allowed to use silk in their accessories, like scarfs and headwear.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i> </i> </span></div>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxkBEqwkLa3RuSc9AgIUr0NJ8FfO1vVlsK5GS01dGTPECpPedBopiGQNe65hd3hF0rTCcC90vCbPlv6dnSzS9iT1MF4ljngVmrYAGjLRNVyj1kFVMNiWCgs2F5z0ASIztgVHAKlQC0bo/s1600/DSC07705.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghxkBEqwkLa3RuSc9AgIUr0NJ8FfO1vVlsK5GS01dGTPECpPedBopiGQNe65hd3hF0rTCcC90vCbPlv6dnSzS9iT1MF4ljngVmrYAGjLRNVyj1kFVMNiWCgs2F5z0ASIztgVHAKlQC0bo/s640/DSC07705.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Silkkipuku (TMK 9002), kaulaliina (TMK 15526:5), silkkinuttu (TMK 15284), tupi (TMK 8240), kirjoittu silkkihame (TMK 10841), puuvillasukat (TMK 9764) ja kengät (TMK 10895) solkineen (TMK 3320) kuuluvat Turun museokeskuksen kokoelmiin. Samppa Lahdenperä ja Turun museokeskus. <i>The silk gown, the scarf, the silk short gown, the quilted petticoat, the embroidered silk petticoat, the white cotton stockings and the shoes with their buckles can be found in the collections of Turku Museum Centre. Samppa Lahdenperä and Turku Museum Centre. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5kKzS10WLeteb_hCuWZrKuuxp-tG5epNIWHzDZ36aqyHPForIIvwtIh6UtLkyc74HsWnCkVKZzA67m2ps-q_zKjCd0RSDrLZr3mSiUdcNdUFGcJb3M-hyoEKvWO0sfnc_hNDXHBVv_Vo/s1600/DSC07726.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5kKzS10WLeteb_hCuWZrKuuxp-tG5epNIWHzDZ36aqyHPForIIvwtIh6UtLkyc74HsWnCkVKZzA67m2ps-q_zKjCd0RSDrLZr3mSiUdcNdUFGcJb3M-hyoEKvWO0sfnc_hNDXHBVv_Vo/s640/DSC07726.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuomuhuppu phaeton (TMK 16800:8), viitta ja muhvi (TMK 8235), kirjailtu silkkitaftipuku (TMK 2491), siniset silkkiavokkaat (TMK 8264) ja taftisilkkijakku (TMK 7280), kirjailtu silkkiliivi (TMK 14064) ja kävelykeppi (TMK 7156) kuuluvat museon kokoelmiin. Samppa Lahdenperä ja Turun museokeskus.<i>The phaeton, the cape and the muff, the embroidered gown of silk taffeta, the blue pumps and the brown taffeta jacket, the embroidered vest and the walking stick belong to the museums collections. Samppa Lahdenperä and Turku Museum Centre. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>Keitä Eleonora ja Anna olivat?</b></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>Who were Eleonora and Anna?</i></b></span><br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Pienimuotoisen
taustaselvityksen kautta sain selville, että ainakin Eleonoran hahmon takaa
löytyy oikea historiallinen henkilö: Agatha Eleonora Finckenberg (1754 - 1804),
omaa sukua De la Myle<b>. </b>Eleonora oli naimisissa<b> </b>luutnantti Johan
Adolf Finckenbergin (1709 - 1795) kanssa. Avioliitosta syntyi ilmeisesti vain
yksi lapsi, Johan Adolf Fredric Finckenberg (1789 - 1806), joka menehtyi vain
16-vuoden ikäisenä, kaksi vuotta äitinsä kuoleman jälkeen. Perheenjäsenten kuolinpaikaksi
on merkitty Nauvo, joten ehkäpä he kuolivat kotonaan, 1760-luvulla rakennetussa
Käldingen kartanon päärakennuksessa.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Osalla
kuvatuista vaatteista on myös yhteys De la Mylen ja Finckenbergien sukuun.
Esimerkiksi vaaleanpunainen tupi on saapunut kokoelmiin Käldingen kartanosta ja
sininen englantilainen puku Raision Upalingon
kartanosta.</span></div>
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://online.auktionsverket.se/1202/120039-pehr-hillestrom-oljemalning/2500120039.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://online.auktionsverket.se/1202/120039-pehr-hillestrom-oljemalning/2500120039.jpg" height="560" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Aamutoiletti. Pehr Hilleström, 1700-luku /<i>The morning toilette by Pehr Hilleström, 18th century. </i><a href="http://online.auktionsverket.se/1202/120039-pehr-hillestrom-oljemalning/" target="_blank">Bukowski</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">A
cursory internet background check reveals that at the other figurine is based
on a historical person: Agatha Elonora Finckenberg (1754 – 1804), neé De la
Myle. She was married to lieutenant Johan Adolf Finckenberg (1709 – 1795). The
marriage produced a son, Johan Adolf Fredric Finckenberg (1789 – 1806), who
died only two years after his mothers death, aged 16. According to the records,
all three died in Nauvo, where they had a manor house called Käldinge, that was
built in the 1760’s.</span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">Some
of the garments have a straight connection to the family De la Myle and
Finckenberg. For example, the pink quilted petticoat comes from the manor house
of Käldinge and the blue English gown from the manor house of Upalinko in
Raisio. </span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.finna.fi/Cover/Show?id=musketti.M012%3AHK19411231%3A322&index=1&size=large&w=1200&h=1200" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://www.finna.fi/Cover/Show?id=musketti.M012%3AHK19411231%3A322&index=1&size=large&w=1200&h=1200" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Upalingon kartano Reinhold Hausenin kuvaamana 1900-luvun alussa. Päärakennuksen rakennutti hovioikeudenneuvos Johan Torsten Molander vuosien 1829-45 välillä. Museovirasto. <i>The Manor of Upalinko. Photographed by Reinhold Hausen in the beginning of the 20th century. The main building was built by Johan Thorsten Molander in 1829 - 49. </i>Finnish National Board of Antiquities </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Palvelustyttö
Annan hahmon tausta ei ole yhtä helposti selvitettävissä. Loppujen lopuksi
hahmon fiktiivisyyden asteella ei välttämättä ole kovin suurta merkitystä,
sillä teksti on harmoniassa rahvaan naisia käsittelevän tutkimuskirjallisuuden
kanssa ja luo palvelustytöstä muista lähteistä todennettavan aikakaudelle
tyypillisen hahmon. Ehkäpä tämä on ollutkin kirjoittajien tarkoituksena?</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Yleisesti
ottaen voidaan todeta, että 1700-luvulla ”Annan” kaltaisia rahvaan naisia ja
tyttöjä palveli erilaisissa kotitaloustehtävissä ennen avioitumistaan.
Tilattomien naimattomien rahvaan naisten edellytettiin astuvan palvelukseen
15-vuoden iässä ja palvelusväki palkattiin tavallisesti vuodeksi Mikkelinpäivänä
sadonkorjuun jälkeen. Isäntäväkeä saattoi siis halutessaan vaihtaa vuosittain.
Isännätön ja tilaton mies tai nainen voitiin tuomita irtolaisuudesta. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Karkeasti
ottaen piikojen tehtävät jakautuivat ulko- ja sisätöihin. Vaikka
päärakennuksessa tapahtuvaa sisäpiian työtä ehkä arvostettiin enemmän, olivat kokeneet
karjapiiat yhtä lailla haluttua työvoimaa. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;"></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Tekstissä
Annan kuvaillaan mm. auttavan emäntäänsä pukeutumisessa ja huoltamassa
arvokasta silkkipukua. Tämän kaltaisia tehtäviä hoitivat taidoiltaan
erikoistuneet sisäpiiat, joista osa yleni emäntänsä henkilökohtaisiksi
kamarineitsyiksi. Isäntäväen kanssa läheisesti työskentelevältä
palveluskunnalta edellytettiin usein hyvien käsityötaitojen lisäksi
ruotsin kielen taitoa ja kielitaito
saattoi olla jopa avain parempiin työoloihin. Näiden lisäksi sopivat
käytöstavat saattoivat auttaa tavallista piikaa ylenemään
palvelusurallaan.
Uskolliset monivuotiset palvelijat voitiin palkita esimerkiksi
tavallista
korkeammalla rahapalkalla. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Kaikki
palveluksessa olevat piiat eivät kuitenkaan olleet nuoria tyttöjä.
Merkittävä
osa piioista palveli noin 30-vuotiaiksi asti. Pidempi palvelusura
mahdollisti
etenemisen lisäksi tärkeiden taitojen opettelua ja antoi mahdollisuuden
säästää
rahaa tulevaa avioliittoa varten. Useimmiten palvelusaika oli välivaihe
lapsuuden ja avioliiton välillä, mutta osa pysyi palveluksessa koko
elämänsä. Pidemmän työuran tehneellä piialla olikin
suhteellisesti enemmän valinnanvaraa tulevaa puolisoa ajatellen, kuin
talontyttärellä tai säätyläisneidoilla, jotka naitettiin useammin
nuorempina
suoraan isänsä talosta aviomiehen hoiviin. </span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-En_piga_h%C3%B6ser_s%C3%A5ppa_utur_en_kiettel_-_i_en_sk%C3%A5l.jpg/736px-Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-En_piga_h%C3%B6ser_s%C3%A5ppa_utur_en_kiettel_-_i_en_sk%C3%A5l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/42/Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-En_piga_h%C3%B6ser_s%C3%A5ppa_utur_en_kiettel_-_i_en_sk%C3%A5l.jpg/736px-Pehr_Hillestr%C3%B6m-En_piga_h%C3%B6ser_s%C3%A5ppa_utur_en_kiettel_-_i_en_sk%C3%A5l.jpg" width="522" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Palvelustyttö on pukeutunut punaiseen pitkähelmaiseen nuttuun. Pehr Hilleström, 1700-luku. <i>The serving girl is dressed in red short- or bed gown with a relatively long hem. Pehr Hilleström, 18th century. </i>Wikimedia Commons </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"></span></i></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.artnet.com/WebServices/images/ll01054lldBTFJFg1KECfDrCWvaHBOcQSxE/pehr-hillestr%C3%B6m-en-piga-som-sopar-och-en-flicka-som-ost%C3%A4dar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.artnet.com/WebServices/images/ll01054lldBTFJFg1KECfDrCWvaHBOcQSxE/pehr-hillestr%C3%B6m-en-piga-som-sopar-och-en-flicka-som-ost%C3%A4dar.jpg" height="640" width="486" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Pehr Hilleström, 1774. <a href="http://artnet./">Artnet.</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
story behind Eleonora’s servant girl Anna is more of a mystery. In the end, the
degree of fictionality is perhaps not too important, because the text is in
line with what we know about the fate and circumstances of the common women of
the era, and the text does a good job of creating a credible and a typical figure.</span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">In
general, the common women of the 18<sup>th</sup> century like “Anna” worked in
domestic service for a period in their life before marrying. The landless and
unmarried common women were expected to take up a position after turning 15.
Servants were usually hired for a year, from after the harvest. Those without a
position and a household of their own could be convicted of vagrancy. Women’s
tasks differed between out- and inhouse duties. Although the position of an
inhouse maid was more valued than that of an outhouse servant, the kind of specialized
outworkers like skilled milkmaids were also sought after and valued. </span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">The
text describes Anna helping dressing up her mistress and taking care of a
precious
silk gown. These duties would have been the chores of a specialized and
skilled inhouse servant, and these skills could help a servant to gain a
postions as her mistresses personal chambermaid. The servants who
worked in
close proximity to their employers required language skills as well, and
sufficient
Swedish could open up new job opportunities and even better working
conditions
for the workforce. The ability to sew and pleasant manners were also a
key to
those seeking inhouse work and advancement. Loyal long-term servants
could rise
to a important positions and receive higher vages.</span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">However,
not all serving women were young girls. A significant number of the
women
stayed in service for an extended period and married only around the
time they
turned 30. A longer career gave servants and maids an opportunity to
save up
for their future marriage and gave them time to acquire important
skills. Still, most often a career in service was an intermediate period
between childhood and marriage. The
economical advance of a prolonged service also gave women more freedom
of
choice in choosing their spouse, than for those of the landed commons
and
gentlefolk, who were usually married straight from their fathers home. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://d2mpxrrcad19ou.cloudfront.net/item_images/404303/8636266_bukobject.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://d2mpxrrcad19ou.cloudfront.net/item_images/404303/8636266_bukobject.jpg" width="520" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Rouva ja piika. Pehr Hilleström, 1700-luku. <i>The mistress and her maid by Pehr Hilleström, 18th century. </i><a href="https://d2mpxrrcad19ou.cloudfront.net/item_images/404303/8636266_bukobject.jpg" target="_blank">Bukowski</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">--</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif;">Kaiken
kaikkiaan tämä Kustavilaisen ajan säätyläisrouva ja palvelustyttö -paperinukke on
hieno esimerkki siitä, kuinka museoiden kokoelmia voidaan tehdä monella tavalla
tunnetuksi. Nykyajan lapselle paperinuket eivät kuitenkaan ole välttämättä
yhtä viehättävä leikkikalu kuin vielä parikymmentä vuotta sitten ja vanhemmalle
polvelle paperinuket ovat ehkä ensisijaisesti nostalgian sävyttämä keräilykohde.
Joka tapauksessa teos saattaa myös toimia innoittajana ja herättää
kiinnostuksen omaan kulttuuriperintöön ja vertailussa hieman tuntemattomampaan suomalaiseen
pukuhistoriaan. Idean päivittäminen virtuaaliseksi olisi ehkä tätä päivää ja
tarjoaisi esimerkiksi kouluikäisille mahdollisuuden eläytyä menneisyyden
ihmisten elämäntilanteisiin ja oppia samalla jotakin menneisyydestä. Eräs vertailukohde löytyy Colonial Williamsburgin <a href="http://www.history.org/History/teaching/dayInTheLife/webactivities/dress/dress.cfm" target="_blank">sivuilta</a>.</span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;">All
in all, this particular paperdoll set is a charming example of how museums can
make their collections known to a wider public. Yet, for today’s children, a paper
doll might not be as popular a toy as it was still a couple of decades ago. For
the elder generations paper dolls might be more of a nostalgic collectors item.
In this case, this particular set offers something more than just the dolls. It
might even spark an interest towards the Finnish cultural heritage and our less known costume
history. An updated game-like digital version could offer the school children
of today a window to the past and it’s people, and an opportunity to learn. An example of can be found from Colonial Williamsburg <a href="http://www.history.org/History/teaching/dayInTheLife/webactivities/dress/dress.cfm">website.</a></span></i><i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;"><span lang="EN-GB" style="mso-ansi-language: EN-GB;"></span></i></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Lähteet / Sources:</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Johanna Ilmakunnas, 2011. <i>Kartanot, kapiot, rykmentit. Erään aatelissuvun elämäntapa 1700-luvun Ruotsissa.</i> SKS. Helsinki </span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Tiina Kuokkanen, 2014. <i>Vaatetus identiteetin ilmentäjänä - Piikojen pukeutuminen 1700-luvun Oulussa.</i> Pro gradu -tutkielma. Oulun yliopisto.<i> </i>http://jultika.oulu.fi/files/nbnfioulu-201410161941.pdf (8.5.2017) <i>(Dress as an expression of identity - Serving womens dress in 18th century Oulu)</i></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Tiina Miettinen, 2015. <i>Piikojen valtakunta. Nainen, työ ja perhe 1600 - 1700-luvuilla.</i> Atena. Keuruu. <i>(The maids kingdom. Women, work and family during the 17th and 18th century)</i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span>
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: normal; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Riitta
Pylkkänen, 1982. <i>Säätyläisnaisten
pukeutuminen Suomessa 1700-luvulla. </i>Suomen muinaismuistoyhdistyksen
aikakausikirja, 84. Helsinki. <i>(The Dress of Gentlewomen in 18th century Finland)</i></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"></span><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">https://www.geni.com/people/Johan-Finckenberg/6000000000108604535 (8.5.2017)</span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">https://www.geni.com/people/Agatha-Finckenberg/6000000001391090299 </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(8.5.2017)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">https://www.geni.com/people/Johan-Finckenberg/6000000001391259101 </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(8.5.2017)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">http://www.kansallisbiografia.fi/kansallisbiografia/henkilo/3747 </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(8.5.2017)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">http://kulperi.blogspot.fi/2014/07/rouva-fortuna-nauvossa.html </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(8.5.2017)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">http://www.nba.fi/rky1993/kohde1679.htm </span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(8.5.2017)</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><b> </b></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b> </b> </span><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"> </span></span></i></div>
Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-31008267043895651642017-05-05T11:15:00.000-07:002017-05-05T13:06:46.682-07:001780-luku: Osa 2 -- 1780's: Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">Säätyläisnaisen alusvaatteet</span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: large;">Lisää suorakaiteita ja kolmioita</span> </span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i>A Gentlewoman and Her Undergarments</i></span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: large;">More Squares and Rectangles</span></span> </i></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio4OrK3nf8h0oEPU0-mX-YGJHFORA0R04Xe6r1fI3NUacKdI1M0Y0wotS3yF9RDrQ20S9FxpAtggLwFUjDO1VuHFf5cr-ONYZLgvcnLLb5O-7e22bwj7Tj2w9HFcUlI3vPppYlVoS9ef0/s1600/P1010130+Etukuva+kansi.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio4OrK3nf8h0oEPU0-mX-YGJHFORA0R04Xe6r1fI3NUacKdI1M0Y0wotS3yF9RDrQ20S9FxpAtggLwFUjDO1VuHFf5cr-ONYZLgvcnLLb5O-7e22bwj7Tj2w9HFcUlI3vPppYlVoS9ef0/s640/P1010130+Etukuva+kansi.JPG" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1780-luvun aluspaita, kureliivi ja alushame. Korsetin kaava löytyy kirjasta <i>Corsets and Crinolines</i>. <i>A 1780's shift worn under a petticoat and stays. The pattern for the stays comes from Nora Waughs </i>Corsets and Crinolines. Kuva /Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi<i><br /></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Historical Sew Fortnightly</span></span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Jokin aika sitten päätin ottaa osaa HSF:n haasteeseen, sillä ajattelin sen rytmittävän mukavasti myös tätä projektia. Huhtikuun haasteena oli valmistaa jotakin suorakaiteista, kolmioista ja ympyröistä. Ensin ajattelin tekeväni jotakin monimutkaisempaa, mutta lopulta se kuuluisa elämä ja todelliset tarpeet tulivat tielle ja päätin tehdä sen iänikuisen tylsän aluspaidan - koska tarvitsen sellaisen. Ympyräksi olin kaavaillut uutta monimutkaisempaa myssyä, mutta valitettavasti en ehtinyt.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>A little while ago I decided to take part in the HSF challenge, since I thought it would be a nice way to give a little and regular boosts to the project at hand. The challenge for April was to create something from rectangles, squares and circles. First, I was planning to make something more elaborate, but in the end, the infamous life and circumstances got in the way. Instead, I decided to do something I really needed: a plain and boring shift. I was planning to use the circle for a more elaborate new cap, but unfortunately I run out of time.</i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Aluspaita </span></span></span></h3>
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<i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>The Shift</b></span></span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;">Aluspaidan kaava on se sama nk. englantilaisittain leikatun paidan kaava, jota käytin <a href="http://neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi/2017/03/1780-luku-uusi-projekti-osa-1-1780s-new.html" target="_blank">palvelusneidon paidassa</a>. Ero löytyy kankaan laadusta.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The shift is cut in the sc. English manner like the shift I made for the <a href="http://neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi/2017/03/1780-luku-uusi-projekti-osa-1-1780s-new.html" target="_blank">servant</a>. The only difference is in the fabric. </i></span></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirMC402Fl0kqFSRDotWqw0Zp8JH8Y9G67uqtGplOTcc-nl54jRAoxo2YnWTAK88qqKat-R30x5HT__XCn79EMRHivYNQYCdSS8p9EA4Y3EvCXcmmJJBE31p-nJaoG7laTf3WbphUBdPKU/s1600/P1010088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirMC402Fl0kqFSRDotWqw0Zp8JH8Y9G67uqtGplOTcc-nl54jRAoxo2YnWTAK88qqKat-R30x5HT__XCn79EMRHivYNQYCdSS8p9EA4Y3EvCXcmmJJBE31p-nJaoG7laTf3WbphUBdPKU/s640/P1010088.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">1780-luvun aluspaita. <i>A 1780's shift. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansimanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i> </span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"></span> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8HemlqGtysZ09RG28qXB_bTpGBX_YmiIv-fVRdejxEoFjgPjaSrvkpqqo4fQNILo7XSEjHVTEO9vdETB47FI5sxv6OTvCZfBKF9qSdVuPRRvjHkWJ_332lExPhqtoFF5uBMYhkzDaTfw/s1600/P1010089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8HemlqGtysZ09RG28qXB_bTpGBX_YmiIv-fVRdejxEoFjgPjaSrvkpqqo4fQNILo7XSEjHVTEO9vdETB47FI5sxv6OTvCZfBKF9qSdVuPRRvjHkWJ_332lExPhqtoFF5uBMYhkzDaTfw/s640/P1010089.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">1700-luvun aluspaidan pääntien rullapäärme. <i>The neckline of the 18th century shift is finsihed witha a tint rolled seam. </i>Kuva / Photo: neulansilmanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_NHD4XC8-U9b-4R23p6lUjZZQ7_gLexKFMR0EsMpzuni9kkmVT4h-_awkchjfeWVqHKT8RStdZ4QnPLRKWADR_4suWSAmYrfbLVbanjeaBBAvct9P4SHs9Pfe53yjbfpOmGOI0KBAGyQ/s1600/P1010090.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_NHD4XC8-U9b-4R23p6lUjZZQ7_gLexKFMR0EsMpzuni9kkmVT4h-_awkchjfeWVqHKT8RStdZ4QnPLRKWADR_4suWSAmYrfbLVbanjeaBBAvct9P4SHs9Pfe53yjbfpOmGOI0KBAGyQ/s640/P1010090.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Kuva / Photo: neulansimanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEI2ak3dXDyNuzAgAIuBQnlIAAYHHHDlHoQ3BpiQp6PuK1lWtHc5TWbU3QddZQP1k_8PpvpVu30C-zTH6KQVZ8RORrCc9u_GTflS2i-aItgBi_gkOsj9jQ_ca9qgJCnFIDgeW9jKhu_fM/s1600/P1010091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEI2ak3dXDyNuzAgAIuBQnlIAAYHHHDlHoQ3BpiQp6PuK1lWtHc5TWbU3QddZQP1k_8PpvpVu30C-zTH6KQVZ8RORrCc9u_GTflS2i-aItgBi_gkOsj9jQ_ca9qgJCnFIDgeW9jKhu_fM/s640/P1010091.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Sauma on ommeltu taka- ja luotospistolla valkaistulla pellavalangalla. <i>The seams are back-stitched and felled with bleached linen thread.</i> Kuva / Photo: neulansimanlapi.blogspot.fi</span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<i><b>The Challenge: </b></i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Circles, Squares & Rectangles</span></div>
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<b><i>Material: </i></b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Light weight white linen</span></div>
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<b><i>Pattern:</i></b><i> </i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I drafted it myself. My goal was to achieve a very thight fight across the chest so I could avoid wrinkling when wearing stays.</span></div>
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<b><i>Year: </i></b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Late 18th century</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<i><b>Notions:</b></i> <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I had to readjust the hemline before the photoshoot. I also failed to add the circles to the project.</span></div>
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<i><b>How historically accurate is it?<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> </span></b></i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">It's entirely hand-sewn using period materials and techniques.</span></div>
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<i><b>Hours to complete: </b></i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">I forgot to time it. I was making it in-between other projects. Usually it takes me about 6 - 8 hours to complete a shift like this, but this time I got distracted and did it over a period of three weeks.</span></div>
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<b><i>First worn: </i></b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">For fitting a new pair of stays and the photoshoot.</span></div>
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<i><b>Total cost: </b></i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">16 euros</span></div>
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<br />Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-29368312137536197582017-03-14T13:19:00.000-07:002017-03-14T13:21:43.206-07:001780-luku: Uusi projekti, osa 1 - 1780's: A new project, part 1<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mitä 1780-luvun suomalaisella palvelustytöllä oli yllään? </span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: large;">1. osa: alusvaatteet</span> </span></span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;">What did a 1780's Finnish maid wear?</span></span></span></i></span></h2>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-size: large;">Part 1: undergarments</span></span></span></span></i></span></h3>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></i></span></h3>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9bRle3wBfWC18nCfqyiC1ccKTO1BG5PaQmPrGwVabIGwq6h9R_EGpnv6ReaFNGdfgSt9hAz03m-DRZJLD6yOq456heQcjRkGEYnJIHvQe4rbSM6bpo1xZKBmu49Y8nVHIkzSq4gmQXbY/s1600/DSC07476aluspaita+takaviisto.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9bRle3wBfWC18nCfqyiC1ccKTO1BG5PaQmPrGwVabIGwq6h9R_EGpnv6ReaFNGdfgSt9hAz03m-DRZJLD6yOq456heQcjRkGEYnJIHvQe4rbSM6bpo1xZKBmu49Y8nVHIkzSq4gmQXbY/s640/DSC07476aluspaita+takaviisto.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> 1700-luvulla aluspaidan alaosa ommeltiin joskus säästäväisyyssyistä karkeampilaatuisesta pellavakankaasta kuin sen yläosa. <i>During the 18th century, the lower part of the chemise or smock was sometimes made of a coarser fabric for economical reasons.</i></span></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<h4 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b>Inspiraatio</b></span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><b><i>The inspiration </i></b> </span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Viime
syksystä asti olen pyöritellyt toden teolla päässäni uutta 1700-luvun
lopulle sijoittuvaa ompeluprojektia. Projekti perustuu vuonna 1995
julkaistuun paperinukkeen, jonka sisältämät puvut pohjautuvat pääosin
Turun museokeskuksen (julkaisuaikana Turun maakuntamuseo) kokoelmiin.
Paketissa on kaksi hahmoa: kustavilaisen ajan säätyläisrouva ja
palvelustyttö. Ensin mainitulla on useampikin asukokonaisuus - kuten
arvata saattaa. Palvelustytöllä vain yksi. Jos onni suo, niin ehkäpä
pystyn tulevaisuudessa esittelemään kyseistä paperinukkea hieman
tarkemmin. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Ever
since last fall I've been planning a new late 18th century sewing
project. This project is inspired by a set of paperdolls published in
1995. What is great about this is, that most of the dresses in this
thing are based on actual garments that are kept in the collections of
Turku Museum Centre. The set has two charachters: a late 18th century
gentlewoman and her maid. The first mentioned has several outfits to
choose from - as one might imagine. The servant gril has only one set of
clothing. I hope I can show you some details of this lovely paperdoll
set in the future.</i></span></span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSPKx2eqviBu6MXzbG-R2lOu7tWMQ8lS5QWK-jqjkEduA3yLZvXbI1YDafRuWvWAjFpAPXFjXeFAp1e-ZpjQUF33cJApfJEZ5GiaTwH-96wAi6j2j9o7msj2_YTlH_5JKd9lpCDjAM6yE/s1600/DSC07463+aluspaita+etu+K.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSPKx2eqviBu6MXzbG-R2lOu7tWMQ8lS5QWK-jqjkEduA3yLZvXbI1YDafRuWvWAjFpAPXFjXeFAp1e-ZpjQUF33cJApfJEZ5GiaTwH-96wAi6j2j9o7msj2_YTlH_5JKd9lpCDjAM6yE/s640/DSC07463+aluspaita+etu+K.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">1700-luvun aluspaita ulottui usein vain puolisääreen. <i>An 18th century chemice usually reached around the mid shin.</i></span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1700-luvun lopun aluspaita</span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Late 18th century smock or chemise</i> </span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1700-luvun
aluspaidat valmistettiin aiempien vuosisatojen tapaa usein pellavasta.
Puuvillasta valmistettuja aluspaitoja alkoi ilmaantua vasta vuosisadan
lopulla. Paidat leikattiin yhä keskiajalta tuttuun tapaan suorakaiteita,
nelikulmioita ja kolmiokiiloja yhdistelemällä. Joitakin vivahde-eroja
kuitenkin oli: esimerkiksi hihat lyhenivät ensin 1600-luvulla ranteesta
kyynärpäähän. 1700-luvun lopulla hihat kapenivat ja lyhenivät vielä
entisestään. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Paidan omistajan
sosioekonominen asema vaikutti käytettävissä olevan kankaan laatuun:
vaikka säätyläisrouvillakin oli varaa teettää paitoja arvokkaasta
hollanninpalttinasta, saattoivat hekin käyttää kotikutoisesta kankaasta
valmistettuja paitoja arkipukiminaan. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCF96JVO9AUxfXaiHKoNnNKE-IRnMVvMYp-o_EpBmJHWN09xdRUVhgG9wT4UgoVt5KpXxOO1J5KZrXdFKO_CAb1vGoD3cswk9AZ-K78mfe7I2NzTMLRUMV12CwFZ_pmqxYX51nYREyGl8/s1600/smocks.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCF96JVO9AUxfXaiHKoNnNKE-IRnMVvMYp-o_EpBmJHWN09xdRUVhgG9wT4UgoVt5KpXxOO1J5KZrXdFKO_CAb1vGoD3cswk9AZ-K78mfe7I2NzTMLRUMV12CwFZ_pmqxYX51nYREyGl8/s640/smocks.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Räätälimestari
Sieur Garsaltin kirjasta L'Art de la lingère, vuodelta 1771. Teos
esittelee ranskalaisen (B) ja kaksi englantilaista leikkaustapaa (A ja
C).<i> Master tailor Sieur Garsalts book L'Art de la lingère from 1771.
The books shows a French (B) and two English (A and C) ways to cut the
smock. <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b7200315v/f72.item.zoom">http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b7200315v/f72.item.zoom</a></i></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Linen
was probably the most common material for 18th century smocks as it had
been in the previous centuries. Cotton smocks appear first during the
end of the century. The smocks were cut and pieced from squares and
triangular gores, a<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">s</span> they had been ever since the middle ages. The
changes were quite small: for example, during the 17th century the
sleeves became shorter, rising from the wrists to the elbows. During the
end of the 18th century the sleeves became narrower and even shorter.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The
socioeconomical status of the wearer could be seen on the quality of
the fabrics: although a gentile lady could afford to have her smocks
made out of the costly imported Dutch linens, even their everyday smock
might have been made out of home spun and woven linens. </i></span></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Palvelustytön arkinen aluspaita</span></span></b></h3>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Serving girls everyday smock </span></span></i></b></h3>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Palvelijattaren
aluspaita on leikattu englantilaiseen tapaan, joka vaikuttaa suositulta
vuosisadan lopun Suomessa. Sen yläosa on keskipaksua valkoista
pellavapalttinaa ja alaosa karkeampaa valkaisematonta pellavaa. Kaikki
on ommeltu käsin pellavalangalla.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The maid's smock is
cut in the English way, which appears to be the preferred way in late
18th century Finland. The top is made of mid weight white plainwoven
linen and the lower part is made of a coarser unbleached linen.
Everything is hand-sewn with linen thread.</i></span></span></i></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuXN4o_B4EyzRsi0rBU3TJy2i4uYHSGXuUUdfqZnEF2W02Fh4gi-5PByDi4NrnANFNT96Vu1nfDOPuuz-KjtAQrLlY9nzus0PfTvH-e318YNTnsX-ZTXhDz-mtmWDlIZjwkCaANrm8oU/s1600/aluspaita+leikkaus.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikuXN4o_B4EyzRsi0rBU3TJy2i4uYHSGXuUUdfqZnEF2W02Fh4gi-5PByDi4NrnANFNT96Vu1nfDOPuuz-KjtAQrLlY9nzus0PfTvH-e318YNTnsX-ZTXhDz-mtmWDlIZjwkCaANrm8oU/s640/aluspaita+leikkaus.jpg" width="478" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Aluspaidan englantilainen leikkaus. <i>The English cut of the smock.</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFBSrNMvYwLNuxsQgLSqyS1LTdmg-vg7gYKYZ0AnNM0aOvkNsN6-wGMGd5FT-h537pAe3P1Royi83Kt_MArOUH5b36zp2eEzbufpHAokl4dbPE_Nnw3b-O15UInrgQPDKshbNmt7leD-Y/s1600/DSC07486+oikea+sauma.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFBSrNMvYwLNuxsQgLSqyS1LTdmg-vg7gYKYZ0AnNM0aOvkNsN6-wGMGd5FT-h537pAe3P1Royi83Kt_MArOUH5b36zp2eEzbufpHAokl4dbPE_Nnw3b-O15UInrgQPDKshbNmt7leD-Y/s640/DSC07486+oikea+sauma.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Helman oikea puoli on leikattu viistoon... <i>The right side of the hem is cut on bias...</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9vfUdFGz_zTqqL-d_cPW8MPEvOHXMhii6sZamk8eXDTCO9mziFm8aKfk3Ia9uneIyMBu5wLMNGPmxazVPjuBW9qZIqGjJzZVRCV1zkwyAhr_vaVRG4kc9u2_dnDstE8rJlcUOSDJrRbw/s1600/DSC07488vasen+sauma.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9vfUdFGz_zTqqL-d_cPW8MPEvOHXMhii6sZamk8eXDTCO9mziFm8aKfk3Ia9uneIyMBu5wLMNGPmxazVPjuBW9qZIqGjJzZVRCV1zkwyAhr_vaVRG4kc9u2_dnDstE8rJlcUOSDJrRbw/s640/DSC07488vasen+sauma.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">... ja vasenta puolta täydentää kolmion muotoinen kiila - aivan kuten Garsaultin kirjassa! <i>... and the left side is completed with a triangular gore - just like in Garsault's book!</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i> </i></span></span></i></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg11ERpBP8D045uvwadjjX9hYMPuu3BY7701mDcQa3_VzV47mCjtLfs4tn5_TjGZqFbEvKVrlIMQD74z9-AynbjHr6wvWR5zFP78SRefirh0WBasAXNqhi-PSjwSuZ8ChHsDuwvWMZwhCk/s1600/DSC07481+kainalokiila.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg11ERpBP8D045uvwadjjX9hYMPuu3BY7701mDcQa3_VzV47mCjtLfs4tn5_TjGZqFbEvKVrlIMQD74z9-AynbjHr6wvWR5zFP78SRefirh0WBasAXNqhi-PSjwSuZ8ChHsDuwvWMZwhCk/s640/DSC07481+kainalokiila.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kainalokiila ja ei niin siistit katesaumat. Ensi kerralla siistimmin.... <i>The armpit gore and the not so neat felled seams. I'll try to do better next time...</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Pellava-alushame</span></span></b></h3>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The linen Petticoat </i></span></span></b><b><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i> </i></span></span></b></h3>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Alushameen kangas jäljittelee pehmeäksi käytössä kulunutta valkaisematonta rohdinpellavaa.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The linen fabric of the petticoat imitates the linens woven from flax tow and softened by regular use and washing.</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhf3hoHs_QoRkMYdIWspUGAyj1J9F8zVVa67I-vj8GkChAhK9zPURQ0Nmfd9TCBpjXAeR0e1LEayv0xNyFsCDi14M8iASOVV29ijL00KG2Sfdsp4NUJYVoVLTq870s-GV5jlv0v2hlWQ/s1600/DSC07501+ahameen+etulaskokset.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhf3hoHs_QoRkMYdIWspUGAyj1J9F8zVVa67I-vj8GkChAhK9zPURQ0Nmfd9TCBpjXAeR0e1LEayv0xNyFsCDi14M8iASOVV29ijL00KG2Sfdsp4NUJYVoVLTq870s-GV5jlv0v2hlWQ/s640/DSC07501+ahameen+etulaskokset.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1700-luvun palvelustytön alushame. <i>18th century servan girls petticoat.</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn54wgx8aojPjzmCQeP5C6g6Rx36H2eXUGYwEG58hB5Z2WLFS-CNqG-4qygwZvmmE44k-ms2AjjiE6g0X1xcmRxd0GTytCgIgWiNVMo6t0ggDwhMuuFX6-JHuoEqrT2nfgfyJJwR7THtU/s1600/DSC07489+alushame+rohdin+K.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgn54wgx8aojPjzmCQeP5C6g6Rx36H2eXUGYwEG58hB5Z2WLFS-CNqG-4qygwZvmmE44k-ms2AjjiE6g0X1xcmRxd0GTytCgIgWiNVMo6t0ggDwhMuuFX6-JHuoEqrT2nfgfyJJwR7THtU/s640/DSC07489+alushame+rohdin+K.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hame rakentuu yhdesta etu- ja takakappaleesta. Kapeammilla aikalaiskankailla eteen ja taakse olisi tullut sauma. <i>The
petticoat is made on a front and a back piece. With the narrower
contemorary fabrics there would have been two additional seams on the
centre front and back.</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYmGBVOjVTzR9VYBddKhyJ0N_jHt50Wic9z1P07jB1Vqe0kGYAkAJ0kLSun60Vpllq4zMt1VVhfYg_ms1maIsbCjdGPeEqUYpqXZF-nclYQUiKlXKn3TKtWyuKwLQt4tBtSeyrKPNVp1w/s1600/DSC07492+ahame+pukeminen+K.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYmGBVOjVTzR9VYBddKhyJ0N_jHt50Wic9z1P07jB1Vqe0kGYAkAJ0kLSun60Vpllq4zMt1VVhfYg_ms1maIsbCjdGPeEqUYpqXZF-nclYQUiKlXKn3TKtWyuKwLQt4tBtSeyrKPNVp1w/s640/DSC07492+ahame+pukeminen+K.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Alushame puetaan seuraavasti: ensin takaosan vyötärönauha sidotaan eteen... <i>The petticoat is dressed like this: first the ribbons of the back piece are tied at the waist...</i></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBaDbqQpKIQmQrYlAbUxaw928jhjJen8FZPiIUHsB7egZOh4b9yPFO2WfMbnYMEBvGxtBH9zLH5IUSHLk_adc5GpId_mRgBxXVBOlruCtw_fYSi1Ow12B0psirP9TebChkR59bbvf4BIU/s1600/etuosan+pukeminen+K.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBaDbqQpKIQmQrYlAbUxaw928jhjJen8FZPiIUHsB7egZOh4b9yPFO2WfMbnYMEBvGxtBH9zLH5IUSHLk_adc5GpId_mRgBxXVBOlruCtw_fYSi1Ow12B0psirP9TebChkR59bbvf4BIU/s640/etuosan+pukeminen+K.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">... lopuksi etuosa kiinnitetään samaan tapaan nauhoilla solmimalla. ...<i>lastly, the front side is attached with the ribbon in a similar fashion.</i></span></td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_urqDg7HJwPmKaoWECdAzWSQO3Ug_F-TjXYZYDfNd8Kl4Jt7dDDGIt0AebuumWYtrXW9e8_hKjIj2ZkLBjsVVBSZ9_paN6C_-bLsxbvxNgoonggGNkcn3Ebscd7c6k0f4_kbG1WqLYc4/s1600/DSC07495+ahame+puettuna.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_urqDg7HJwPmKaoWECdAzWSQO3Ug_F-TjXYZYDfNd8Kl4Jt7dDDGIt0AebuumWYtrXW9e8_hKjIj2ZkLBjsVVBSZ9_paN6C_-bLsxbvxNgoonggGNkcn3Ebscd7c6k0f4_kbG1WqLYc4/s640/DSC07495+ahame+puettuna.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Ja voilà: aluskerrokset on puettu! <i>And voilà: the undergarments are on! </i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i> </i></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">PS. Pääasiat ansaitsevat aivan oman juttunsa. Lisää on tulossa!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>PS. The headwear deserves a posting of it's own. Stay tuned for more!</i> </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span></span></span>Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-14907379366612002942017-03-07T10:18:00.002-08:002019-02-05T23:02:45.723-08:00<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1520-luvun harmaa puku ja kaksi ritamusta</span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">A 1520's grey dress and two partlets</span></span></h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fMI8p2BnObh-7X7hxohGvD7Qe6eeCT_e7zhnz9lqCaP9z2y6S_MOVCaNd2rhHCU48HbnxnpepgbIkPIe105Kw3T6mlpGwiRqKJ5ySQrMqy4niJlEjN_BFCEZK2M3LO-JSAI7B_VbAj4/s1600/DSC07378.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5fMI8p2BnObh-7X7hxohGvD7Qe6eeCT_e7zhnz9lqCaP9z2y6S_MOVCaNd2rhHCU48HbnxnpepgbIkPIe105Kw3T6mlpGwiRqKJ5ySQrMqy4niJlEjN_BFCEZK2M3LO-JSAI7B_VbAj4/s640/DSC07378.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Rakastavaisten naisen pukukokonaisuus ei suinkaan ollut aivan ensimmäinen saksalaistyylinen renessanssipukuni. Sitä ennen olin tehnyt eräänlaisena harjoitusversiona alempaa löytyvään maalaukseen perustuvan hameen. Syystä tai toisesta en tullut dokumentoineeksi tätä pukua laisinkaan. Pari päivää sitten päätin vihdoin kuvauttaa sen. Ikävä kyllä, ne kuvat eivät onnistuneet sääolosuhteiden vuoksi kovinkaan hyvin, joten yritimme tänään uudelleen paremmalla onnella.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The Lovers dress was by no means my first dress in the style of the German renaissance. Before it, I had made a kind of a trial dress based on the painting further below. For one reason or another, I never got around to documenting this one. A few days ago I finally decided to photograph it. Unfortunately those pictures did not turn out too well, so we thought to try again today and with better luck.</i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i> </i></span></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoDfHBPGFUaI5CjkoDVIa2BaX4PBhRDRnPy0IRAoTb8eCYl6B88-t4pTDZPHFtcvRJHxm6a7439h18yeNLjspmOKBT0PI9c8qzKrKeDqUjYcOtpJHwOGf1LeIq8dy1H-d63hDu1FCH-E/s1600/DSC07387+takasivu.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYoDfHBPGFUaI5CjkoDVIa2BaX4PBhRDRnPy0IRAoTb8eCYl6B88-t4pTDZPHFtcvRJHxm6a7439h18yeNLjspmOKBT0PI9c8qzKrKeDqUjYcOtpJHwOGf1LeIq8dy1H-d63hDu1FCH-E/s640/DSC07387+takasivu.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Harmaa puku on ohutta villatoimikasta ja se on reunustettu mustalla villapalttinalla. Ja kyllä, kaikki on ommeltu käsin. Ehkä sen huomaa, mutta en oikein pidä ompelukoneista....</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The grey dress is made of grey wool twill and it's edged with black plain woven wool fabric. And yes, everything is sewn by hand. I guess my aversion to sewing machine is showing... </i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i> </i></span></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFp5VqT1JerGhehD8aE0AIEIem-IZvVF3y6qYcjI2Z-XYbOPU1-HI-oM01QAhsJlUDCjYIu8PYM4-RWDrl3bULiUQImUVuMCWee2sLsPzDEsEmsbeKTonjqhSCybcP71VL5ClzAiBMYs/s1600/DSC07324+hame+yl%25C3%25A4osa+viisto.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcFp5VqT1JerGhehD8aE0AIEIem-IZvVF3y6qYcjI2Z-XYbOPU1-HI-oM01QAhsJlUDCjYIu8PYM4-RWDrl3bULiUQImUVuMCWee2sLsPzDEsEmsbeKTonjqhSCybcP71VL5ClzAiBMYs/s640/DSC07324+hame+yl%25C3%25A4osa+viisto.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Puvun liivimäinen yläosa on leikattu kahdesta etukappaleesta ja yhdestä takakappaleesta. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The vest-like bodice consists of two front pieces and of one back piece. </i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Liivi sulkeutuu edestä hakasin. Puvun yläosa on vuorattu kahdella erilaatuisella pellavalla.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The bodice closes with hooks and eyes. The upper part of the dress is lined with two different types of linen.</i> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Pfdf7sOYEOiI4H6c_ZqduaC534O_bmVyiTLPubtqscFID_nDI7BEoYNq8Udyh21aL6mG0o6epTPhjT4PwtAKcMp6uvj8lejB1VVpq7aGXa5wy7fWurjZc-1e8Gy8zVGa3npeu9SThwo/s1600/DSC07323+koko+hame.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Pfdf7sOYEOiI4H6c_ZqduaC534O_bmVyiTLPubtqscFID_nDI7BEoYNq8Udyh21aL6mG0o6epTPhjT4PwtAKcMp6uvj8lejB1VVpq7aGXa5wy7fWurjZc-1e8Gy8zVGa3npeu9SThwo/s640/DSC07323+koko+hame.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Hame on leikattu 1500-luvun lopun itävaltalaisten räätälinkirjojen ohjeiden mukaan yhteensä neljästä osasta: kahdesta etu- ja takakappaleesta. Helman leveys on n. 500 cm. Hameen vuori on mustaa pellavaa / pellavasekoitetta.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The skirt is cut in four pieces after the examples is late 16th century Austrian tailor's books, with two front and two back pieces. The hem circumference is c. 500 cm. It's lined with black linen / linen blend.</i> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Uusien projektien yhteydessä on myös mukava kokeilla erilaisia tekniikoita. Tämän projektin kohdalla kokeilin nk. topattua helmaa. Harmaan hameen helma on käännetty vinoon langansuuntaan leikatulla mustalla villakankaalla, jonka sisältä löytyy ohut pellavakaistale. Tekniikkaan voi tutustua <a href="https://adelheitsworkshop.wordpress.com/2015/04/29/building-a-better-skirt-padded-hems/" target="_blank">täällä.</a></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>I like to experiment with new construction techniques every time I make something new. The new thing with this one, is the so called padded hem. The hem is turned wit the bias cut black wool and padded with strip of linen. You can read more about the <a href="https://adelheitsworkshop.wordpress.com/2015/04/29/building-a-better-skirt-padded-hems/" target="_blank">padded hem here.</a></i> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Puvun innoittajana toimi Hans Brosamerille (k. 1552) attribuoitu maalaus. Se esittää myöhempien tietojen mukaan 38-vuotiasta Katharina Meriania. Naisen asukokonaisuuden ja asusteiden tyyli viittaa 1520-luvun Nurembergiin. Lisää tietoja maalauksesta löytyy <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/435804" target="_blank">täältä.</a><i> </i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The grey dress is inspired by a painting attributed to Hans Brosamer (d. 1552). A later inscription tells that it is a portrait of a Katharina Merina, aged 38. Her dress and accessories <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">point</span> to 1520's Nuremberg. More information on the painting can be found <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/435804" target="_blank">here. </a></i></span></span></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr align="justify"><td><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ep/web-large/DP164865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ep/web-large/DP164865.jpg" height="640" width="460"></a></td></tr>
<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="color: #0000ee;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="color: #0000ee;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/435804" target="_blank"><span style="color: #0000ee;">The Met</span></a></span></span></span></td><td class="tr-caption"></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Rintamuksen
brokadikangas on halpaa keinokuitua ja vuorattu viininpunaisella paksulla villatoimikkaalla. Suoraan sanottuna sen kuvio ei
ole aivan oikeaoppinen: se muistuttaa viktoriaanisia sisustuskankaita,
jotka tosin saivat innoituksensa renessanssista. Koska kyseessä oli harjoituskappale, en ajatellut laittavani rahaa alkuperäisiä kankaita jäljittelviin damasteihin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>The
partlet is made of a cheap syntethic brocade and lined with thick wine red wool twill. Frankly, the pattern is
not completely authentic: it reminds me of the victorian fabrics used in
soft furnishings that got their inspirations from the renaissance. Yet,
since this was a trial piece, I was not prepared to splurge on
reproduction damasks.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Rintamuksen innoitajana toiminut muotokuva löytyy esimerkiksi <a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/43/65/a4/4365a439b871c86b1e6fafc20713fb36.jpg" target="_blank">täältä.</a></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The inspiration for the partlet came from this <a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/43/65/a4/4365a439b871c86b1e6fafc20713fb36.jpg" target="_blank">portrait.</a></i><a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/43/65/a4/4365a439b871c86b1e6fafc20713fb36.jpg" target="_blank"> </a></span></span><a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/43/65/a4/4365a439b871c86b1e6fafc20713fb36.jpg" target="_blank"> </a><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Alla oleva valkoinen rintamus on ommeltu kaksinkertaisesta ohuesta pellavasta ja suljettu neuloilla.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>The white partlet underneath is sewn from two layers of thin linen and closed with pins. </i></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7ToErFJ-auPCcKigfCs4brmza-NkYKiUeMiYfZzuddqUVgPq2LUmj5jM608ZLuQ26x92Mg2FAVvO6d-9ttZxNrVLZ_cqqdRjxReIFlML0OtrwG4MXtzuLj74fyFIzPaNH2CPNZD9bx8/s1600/DSC07402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd7ToErFJ-auPCcKigfCs4brmza-NkYKiUeMiYfZzuddqUVgPq2LUmj5jM608ZLuQ26x92Mg2FAVvO6d-9ttZxNrVLZ_cqqdRjxReIFlML0OtrwG4MXtzuLj74fyFIzPaNH2CPNZD9bx8/s640/DSC07402.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Mistä huomaa, että hunnun alla oleva wulsthaube ei ole aivan valmis....?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Can you tell that the wulsthaube underneath the veil is not finished...?</i> </span> <br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Kaiken kaikkiaan puku ei kuitenkaan ole hassumpi. Ehkäpä sille löytyy vielä käyttöä ;-)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>All in all it's quite nice for a first try. Perhaps I'll find some use for it ;-)</i></span><br />
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<br />Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-194796775204454972017-02-12T02:30:00.000-08:002017-02-12T11:27:05.163-08:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<h2 style="text-align: center;">
<b><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Turun linnan rakastavaiset - Kuvasta todeksi</span></span></span></b></h2>
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<b><span style="font-weight: normal;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The Lover's of Turku Castle - From Image to Reality</span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></span></b></h2>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></h3>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcVtsZogtMRkjhN_V5c8kJYnMhyphenhyphenAdhkB-BrqQgv1uj0fQaLPDZdJ9Ymx0cc6cMaE3YVubJCDkwjxV9ey0E0VEqkZh6x5OUAtORrJ3vtzi1vEGRJ3Ctk_9_cFwAJIo7tmfo9FR77a2tAY/s1600/DSC_0627+Rakastavaiset+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTcVtsZogtMRkjhN_V5c8kJYnMhyphenhyphenAdhkB-BrqQgv1uj0fQaLPDZdJ9Ymx0cc6cMaE3YVubJCDkwjxV9ey0E0VEqkZh6x5OUAtORrJ3vtzi1vEGRJ3Ctk_9_cFwAJIo7tmfo9FR77a2tAY/s640/DSC_0627+Rakastavaiset+1.jpg" width="468" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Turun linnan Portinvartijan
kamarin läntiseltä seinältä löytyy kuva saksalaiseen tapaan pukeutuneesta parista. Maalaus on askarruttanut mieltäni aina
siitä asti, kun aloitin työni linnan museo-oppaana vuonna 2010. Kyseinen
maalaus tunnetaan varsin yleisesti nimellä "rakastavaiset". Se on
yksi kolmesta huoneesta löytyvästä ihmishahmoja esittävistä kuva-aiheista.
Neljäs maalausryhmä löytyy huoneen itäiseltä puolelta, jossa on samankaltaisia
köynnöskuvioita kuin rakastavaisten ja pohjoiselta seinältä löytyvän hahmon
ympäriltä. Maalaukse<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">t</span> on ajoitettu <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">1530-luvun taitteeseen.</span></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>There
is an image of a couple dressed in the German style on the western wall in the room known as The Porter's Lodge in
Turku Castle. The painting has intrigued my imagination ever since I began my work there
as a museum guide back in 2010. They are known as "The Lovers".
They're one of three images remaining in the room depicting people. The fourth
image group depicts similar vegetation that can be seen surrounding The Lovers
and another figure on the norther wall. The paintings are dated to c<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">.</span> 1530.</i></span></span><br />
<br /></div>
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<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LOuiTeY2NawALCsUY-W-wQfe3cmi9JncI4D1kp1uWa1TIlFLJEbE4Q5-O_0tY0GndCaxKyKLgpfT0cXWKOjOD9aBI8rHhew6UP1bitwUSeGo5F08nvuMmdnWc59BxIBrR-buUYY1MRg/s1600/Museovirasto.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_LOuiTeY2NawALCsUY-W-wQfe3cmi9JncI4D1kp1uWa1TIlFLJEbE4Q5-O_0tY0GndCaxKyKLgpfT0cXWKOjOD9aBI8rHhew6UP1bitwUSeGo5F08nvuMmdnWc59BxIBrR-buUYY1MRg/s640/Museovirasto.jpg" width="441" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuva: <a href="http://museovirasto./">Museovirasto</a></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Olin jo pitkään haaveillut maalauksessa esiintyvien pukujen valmistamisesta. Vuoden 2016 taitteessa päätin vihdoinkin ryhtyä tuumasta toimeen. Tämä<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">n projektin johdosta muut ompelukset saivat luvan odotta<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">a.</span></span> <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Puvut on<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> kuvattu tammikuussa Turun linnan renessanssikerroksessa.</span></span> </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Entä missä <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ne</span> voi nähdä livenä? No 17.2.2017 aukeavassa näyttelyssä <a href="https://www.turku.fi/turun-linna/nayttelyt/vaihtuvat-nayttelyt" target="_blank">Valtapeliä - Reformaatio Suomessa</a> Turun linnassa tietenkin!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>For a long time, I had <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">dreamed about <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">making the <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">garments depicted on the image. At last, <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">i</span>n the beginning of the year 2016 I finally decided to start the project. This was indeed the project of the 2<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">016<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">, so other sewing projects were put aside. </span>The photo shoot took place in January <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">on the renaissance floor of Turku Cas<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">tle. </span></span></span></span></span></span></i></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>And where can you see these garments? In <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">the exhibition </span></i><a href="https://www.turku.fi/en/turku-castle/exhibitions/temporary-exhibitions" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Game of Power - Reformation in Finland</span></a><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> which open in Turku Caslte on the 17th of February 2017!</span></i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Naisen puvussa on neljä kerrosta: alimpana ohuesta valkeasta pellavasta valmistettu aluspaita, jonka päälle on puettu ruskeasta villasekoitteesta valmistettu hihaton liivihame.<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Koska <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">m</span>aalauksessa naisen rintamuksen avonaisen kauluksen alta ei näy<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> aikakaudelle muutoin tyypillistä korkeakauluksista aluspaitaa, päädyin <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">matalampaan pääntiehen. Esikuva löytyy <a href="http://daten.digitale-sammlungen.de/~db/0004/bsb00042105/images/bsb00042105_00094.jpg" target="_blank">täältä.</a></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The woman's attire has four layers: a fine white linen smock and a brown wool-blend kirtle/petticoat without sleeves. Since the open partlet on th<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">e open collar of the partler in the painting does not revea<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">l a typical high necked <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">smock, I decided to make <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">one with a lower neckline. The inspiration for this <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">neckline can be <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">found <a href="http://here./">here.</a></span></span></span></span></span></span></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Päällyshameena on samankaltainen hihallinen liivihame, jonka pääntie, miehusta ja kalvosimet on koristeltu vihreällä damastilla. Hameen helmaa koristaa harmaasta villasta tehtyy päärme. Päällyshame on leikattu n. 5 cm lyhyemmäksi kuin alushame. J<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">älkeenpäin ajatellen päällyspuku olisi saanut olla vieläkin lyhyempi, jotta aluspuvun helma tulisi paremmin esiin.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The overdress or gown is similarly cut sleeved kirtle, with green damask decorations on the neckline, bodice front and the cuffs. The red dress has a wide guard of grey wool at the bottom of the hem. On hindsight, the overgown could have been <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">even shorter<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">.</span></span></i></span></span><br />
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<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><i> </i>Photo: Karo Suominen</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Maalauksessa
naisen asun kuviokangas on maalattu vihreällä ja punaruskealla. En
kuitenkaan onnistunut löytämään hinta-laatusuhteeltaan sopivaa
kaksiväristä damastia tai leikattua samettia, joten päädyin yksiväriseen
vaihtoehtoon. Damasti on ostettu <a href="http://www.wattsandco.com/textiles/fabrics/green-fabrics/winchester-green.html" target="_blank">täältä</a><i>. </i>Se muistuttaa hieman silkkiä, joka löytyy <a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/es/web-large/DP152959.jpg" target="_blank">Metin</a> kokoelmista ja eräästä Hans Holbein vanhemman maalamasta <a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/1522_Holbein_d.%C3%84._Angeh%C3%B6riger_der_Augsburger_Familie_Weiss_anagoria.JPG/800px-1522_Holbein_d.%C3%84._Angeh%C3%B6riger_der_Augsburger_Familie_Weiss_anagoria.JPG" target="_blank">muotokuvasta</a>.<i> </i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The patterned fabric on the painting was done with green and
reddish-browns colours. I was not able to find a suitable and affordable
two-toned fabric, so I settled for a monochrome alternative. I got the
damast from <a href="http://www.wattsandco.com/textiles/fabrics/green-fabrics/winchester-green.html" target="_blank">here</a>. It's similar to a silk in <a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/es/web-large/DP152959.jpg" target="_blank">the Met</a> collections and the one depicted in a <a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/3e/1522_Holbein_d.%C3%84._Angeh%C3%B6riger_der_Augsburger_Familie_Weiss_anagoria.JPG/800px-1522_Holbein_d.%C3%84._Angeh%C3%B6riger_der_Augsburger_Familie_Weiss_anagoria.JPG" target="_blank">portrait</a> by Hans Holbein the elder.</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Alkuperäisessä maalauksessa vyön ja esiliinan <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">yksityiskohdat</span> ovat epäselvät. Päädyin lopulta nk. hunajakenno-smokattuun esiliinan, sillä tällä tavoin rypytetty esiliina korostaa muodikasta vatsan pyöreyttä entisestään. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The details of the belt and the apron are not very clear on the painting. In the end I decided upon the well documented honeycomb smocking on the apron, because it accentuates the fashionable curve of the belly. </i></span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Asun viimeistelee pääntien peittävä rintamus/kaulus, (saks. <i>goller, </i>ruots. <i>krage, </i>engl. <i>partlet</i>). Damastista valmistetussa kauluksessa on villavuori ja se on reunustettu samalla keltaisella villalla. Valinta on kompromissi, jonka kautta olen tavoitellut lähinna visuaalista harmoniaa pukujen esikuvan kanssa. Villainen reunus on ehkä historiallisessa mielessä outo valinta, sillä tällaisten vaatekappaleiden koristeluun käytettiin useimmiten arvokkaampia kankaita, kuten silkkiä ja samettia. Alkuperäisenä ajatuksenani olikin käyttää keltaista samettia, mutta en onnistunut löytämään miehen asussa käytetyn villan kanssa yhteen sopivaa sävyä. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The outfit is finnished with a partlet (</i>goller <i>in german and </i>krage<i>
in swedish). It's made of the green damast and has a white woollen
lining for warmth. The edges are decorated with fine yellow wool. The
choice was a compromise, through which I was aiming to harmonize the
visual effect with the original image. Historically speaking, a woollen
decoration on a damask partlet is odd, since different silks and velvets
would have been the prefferred choice of the day. My original idea was
to use some sort of silk or velvet for this job, but I was unable to
locate either in a colour that would match the yellow wool<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> nicely</span>. </i></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Pussukka on valmistettu säämiskästä<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">. S<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">en esikuvana toimi pussukkatyyppi, joka löytyy esim. <a href="http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07906e13a.jpg" target="_blank">Germanisches National<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">m</span>useumista</a></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The purse is made of shammy leather by Mikke. It's modelled after the type found for example in <a href="http://www.bildindex.de/bilder/MI07906e13a.jpg" target="_blank">Germanisches National<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">m</span>useum.</a></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Naisen hattu on valmistettu huovutetusta villapalttinasta. Hatun tukirunkona on olkihatun lieri. Sen reuna on lävistetty taltalla. Koristenauha on pujoteltu reikien läpi. Miehen hattu on tehty samalla periaatteella, mutta päällystin sen villan sijaan sametilla ja <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">koristenauha on vihreää taftia.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The hat is made of heavily felted wool tabby. It's supported with the brim of a strawhat. The edge of the fabric is pierced with a chisel and the decorative ribbon is pulled through the openings.<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> The construction of the man's hat is basically the same, but I used velvet to cover i<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">t and green taffeta for the brim decoration.</span></span></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Itselleen on toki aina mukavaa tehdä uusia vaatteita, mutta tässä projektissa ehdoton suosikkini on kuitenkin miehen asu. Se on hävyt<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">tömän ihana.</span> Ennen kaikkea, se vaatii aika paljon käyttäjältään. Kaikeksi onneksi minulla olikin sopiva malli mielessä. Ja ei: en kysynyt haluaako Mikke ylipäätään tällaiset vermeet... </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Although it's always nice to make new things that you can wear yourself, my all time favourite is the man's outfit. It's outrageous<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ly faboulous. </span>It definately requires quite a lot from the wearer. And no: I did not ask how Mikke felt about wearing such an outfit...</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Miehen röijy ja hoset ovat valkoista villaa. Nyörit ovat nahkaa, pointit messinkiä ja sukkanauhat vihreää silkkitaftia. Hattu on punaista samettia. Aluspaidaksi päätyi lopulta korkeakauluksinen <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">"</span>harjoituspaita". Se onkin ainoa osa <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">koko puvustosta, jo<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">ka on koottu koneell<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">a, mutta huoliteltu ja kirottu käsin</span></span>. Tarkoitukseni oli tehdä toinen paita täysin kä<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">sin, mutta <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">joskus <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">elämä tulee väliin ja sot<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">kee alkuperäiset suunnitelmat...</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The doublet, or wams, and the hose are made of the same white wool. The laces are leather, the aiglet are made of brass and the garters are a rectangular piece of silk taffeta. The hat is made of velvet. The smock is the only <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">garment that was assmbled by machine, but finished and embroidered by hand. Other pieces are entirely hand<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">-</span>sewn. Originally this smock was supposed to be a practice piece<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> an<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">d I was supposed to do another one entirely by hand, but alas, life got in the way...</span></span></span></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Miehen <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">takkimai<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">s</span>en lievejak<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">un</span>, <i>waffenrockin </i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">helma on <span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">täyskello ja leikattu neljästä<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> osasta</span>. Jokainen raita on leikattu muotoon ja ommeltu kiinni hamekankaasee<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">n. Kyllä, siihen meni ikuisuudelta tuntuva aika... Hihat on vuorattu vihreällä pellavalla.</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">The skirt of the coat like arms jacket, waffenrock, is a full circle. It's cut from four 1/4 piece. Each stripe is cut to form and sewn to the skirt fabric. Yes, it felt like it took forever to sew those in place... The sleeves are lined with green linen.</span></i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kengät: Elina Laitinen. <i>Shoes by Elina Laitinen. </i>Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Jalassa on tietysti aivan mahtavan hienot maalauksen innoittamat kengät. Niiden tekijä on taitava ja lahjakas muinaistekniikan artesaani Elina Laitinen, joka myös kävi sivukaupalla läpi kenkiin liittyviä arkeologisia lähdeteoksia. <i> </i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>The outfit could not be completed without shoes. These are handmade by the talented artesan of ancient techniques Elina Laitinen. They are inspired by the painting and I know she poured ower archeological source material over these.</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Kuvauksissa
oli mukana tietysti myös Jani, jonka asun inspiraationa on toiminut
portinvartijan kamarin pohjoiselta seinältä löytyvä maalaus.</span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Hän myös yllätti meidät iloisesti pukemalla ja aseistamalla Mikken asiaan kuuluvin varustein.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Jani was of course part of the photo shoot, wearing a landsknecht outfit inspired by the painting on the northern wall of the Porter's Lodge.</i> </span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>He had a surprise for us and he equipped Mikke with the appropriate armoury.</i></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Landsknecht romantiikkaa....?</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><i>Landsknecht romance....?</i> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> </span> <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"> Photo: Karo Suominen</span></td></tr>
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Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-66467927113079833232016-08-23T03:07:00.001-07:002016-08-23T05:56:30.083-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDhs_9Asga47Hsw-OlCQyJum5o1SMfatmkDE3oxBHJWbbO6aGPB5sdzaQo_FzJo_Br9Yz6RhOXnDJDSFUyiiA4B9Dx20naqP77qV9cH43N5Oyn0IWM8MbqUcjhvYvre_rSvfSsX3mY0Gw/s1600/Schachzabelbuch_28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
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<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Työmie<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">hen sininen mekko: tyylin ajoitus</span></span></span></span></span></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">The medieval working man's blue gown: dating the style</span></span></i></span></span></span></span></span></span></h2>
<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> </span></span></i> </span></span></span><i><br /></i></span></span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/52/a8/a2/52a8a2d2345b0cc15fa20bea30b9b707.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/52/a8/a2/52a8a2d2345b0cc15fa20bea30b9b707.jpg" width="446" /></a></span></span></h2>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Väljiin tunikoihin tai mekkoihin pukeutuneet työmiehet rakentamassa Baabelin tornia, v. 1423. <i>Working men building the tower of Baabel, wearing loose tunics or gowns, 1423. </i>(<a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/52/a8/a2/52a8a2d2345b0cc15fa20bea30b9b707.jpg">Bedford Hours</a>, British Library, MS Add 18850, f.17v)<i> </i> </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sinisen mekon
tyylin ajoitus vaatii hieman salapoliisityötä ja tulkintaa jo sen
vuoksi, että kyseessä ei ole suora kuvaan tai ainoastaan yhteen löytöön
perustuva ennallistus, vaan ennemminkin yhdistelmä löytöjen,
kuvalähteiden ja pukuhistoriallisen kirjallisuuden tarjoamaa tietoa.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The
dating of the style of the blue gown requires a bit of detective work and some
interpretation, because the garment is not a straight forward
reconstruction of an extant garment or visual source, but rather a
combination of archeological finds, pictoral sources and information
resource<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">d</span> from costume historical litterature.</i> </span></span></span></div>
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<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Säilyneet esimerkit</span></span><i><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></span></span></i></span></span></span></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Extant examples</span> </span></span></i> </span></span></span></h3>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Löytöjä
vertailemalla voi todeta, että samankaltaisia etu- ja takakiilattomia
mekkoja löytyy keskiajalta ainakin 1100-luvulta eteenpäin. Hihojen kaavoitus kuitenkin vaihtelee. Alla lista
muutamista esimerkeistä: </span></span></span></div>
<ol style="text-align: justify;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_01.htm">Dalmatica</a> eli tunika vuodelta 1125 - 1150, (Konstruktiokuva löytyy <a href="http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/6_Dobove/06_Suknice/VI_06_12.htm">täältä</a>)</span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;">Nk. </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.kostym.cz/Obrazky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_100.jpg">Pyhän Fransiskus Assisilaisen tunika</a>, ajoitettu vuosiin 1155 - 1255, josta on kirjoitettu myös </span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://floridafriar.weebly.com/1/post/2011/7/franciscan-fabric-of-faith-rediscovering-sayal-wool-part-i.html">täällä</a> </span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Infanta Marien surcotte (+ 1235), (Museo del Traje, Madrid)</span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="http://www.kostym.cz/Anglicky/1_Originaly/01_Goticke/I_01_105.htm">Dona Teresa Gilin</a>
tunika vuodelta 1307 rakentuu etu ja sivukiilojen avulla tosin
sivukiilat alkavat vasta vyötärön kohdalta toisin kuin Grönlannin Ia
-tyypin löydöissä (Museo del Traje, Madrid)</span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Grönlannin Herjolfsnesin <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">tyypin I<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">a löydöt</span></span></span> </span></span></span></li>
</ol>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pidempi listaus samantyyppisistä vaatteista löytyy <a href="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/%7Emarc-carlson/cloth/tunics.html">täältä</a>.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>By
comparing other extant medieval garments without back and front gores
it's safe to say that a similar construction has been used at least from
the 12th century onwards. The cut of the sleeves <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">varies.</span> Here is a list of some of the examples:</i></span></span></span></div>
<ol style="text-align: justify;">
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>A Dalmatica or a tunic from 1125 - 1150 </i></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The so called tunic of St. Fransiscus of Assisi, date 1155 - 1255</i></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The surcotte of Infanta Marie (+ 1235), (Museo del Traje, Madrid) </i></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The
tunic of Dona Teresa Gil from 1307. The body of the dress has a similar
construction, albeit the sidepanels start from the waist level as
opposed from under the arm like the Greenland type Ia finds. (Museo del
Traje, Madrid) </i></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Greenland finds from Herjolfsnes, T<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">y<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">pe Ia</span></span> </i></span></span></span></li>
</ol>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>A longer list of these types of garments can be found <a href="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/%7Emarc-carlson/cloth/tunics.html">here</a>.</i> </span></span></span></div>
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<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Kuvalähteet: 1300 - 1400-luvu<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">n napitetut mekot</span></span></span></h3>
<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Contemporary images: 14th and 15th cen<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">tury buttoned <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">gowns</span></span></span></i></span></span></h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/5e/6a/2c/5e6a2ca98f88c4cae679ada58bdf064a.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/564x/5e/6a/2c/5e6a2ca98f88c4cae679ada58bdf064a.jpg" width="352" /></a></span></span></td></tr>
<tr align="justify"><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.bl.uk/manuscripts/FullDisplay.aspx?ref=Stowe_MS_17"><i>Maastricht Hours</i>.</a> 1<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">3</span>00-luvun ensimmäinen neljännes. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>First quarter of the 14th century. </i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i> </i>(British
Library, Stowe MS 17, f.4v)</span></span></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Kuvat napitetuista vaatteista ajoittuvat lähinnä 1200-luvun lopulta 1400-luvulle. Kuvalähteiden kohdalla on välillä vaikea erottaa puvun leikkausta. Napitukset sen sijaan on usein kuvattu varsin selkeästi.</span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sarah Thursfieldin The Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Common Garments 1100 - 1480 (2015)
ajoittaa tämän tyyppisen mekon 1400-luvun työvaatteiden joukkoon.
Esimerkeiksi hän tarjoaa kaksi kuvalähdettä: ensimmäinen näistä on Bedfordin tuntien kirjasta v. 1432 löytyvä kuva puusepästä (<a href="http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/sacredtexts/bedford.html">Bedford Hours</a>,
British Library, MS Add 18850, f.15b) ja toinen kuva esittää
talonpoikaa ja se on otettu burgundilaisesta seinävaatteesta vuodelta
1465 (Burrel Collection, Glasgow). Ainoastaan jälkimmäisessä näkyy
selvästi kolme nappia pääntiessä ja hihoissa. (Ks. sivu 143, <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Kuva 10.18 ja 10.19) </span> </span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>Many
of the images with buttoned garments date from the end of the 13th
century to the 15th century. At times it's hard to decipher the cut of a
garment by just looking at medieval images. But buttons are usually
made quite visible.</i></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Sarah Thursfield's </span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">The Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Common Garments 1100 - 1480</span></span><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;">
(2015) dates this type of gown among the 15th century working garments.
She gives us two images as examples: the first one is an image of a
carpenter from </span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>the</i> Bedford Hours</span></span><i><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: small;"> from 1432 </span></span></i><span style="font-size: small;"><i>(<a href="http://www.bl.uk/onlinegallery/sacredtexts/bedford.html">Bedford Hours</a>,
British Library, MS Add 18850, f.15b) and the second is an image of a
peasant from a Burgundian tapestry, dating 1465 (Burrel Collection,
Galsgow). Unfortunately, you can only spot three buttons on the sleeve and neckline on the image last
mentioned<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">. (See page 143, <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Fig. 10.18 and Fig. 10.19)</span></span> </i></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-8Z3A3kfuDh6lto3PJxTU5tUdj5ckwutEwprOSL7gRlpa6_Zhd7QXGonqEWFLSa1xFZld_L2WxQ-x4_R4Came3bjtbf81P8-_VQhupFcNNsK-Oy4H0k1VC3m9bptx7sJ3Ir5Z2AnFXM/s1600/Shachzabelbuch+413_203r.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt-8Z3A3kfuDh6lto3PJxTU5tUdj5ckwutEwprOSL7gRlpa6_Zhd7QXGonqEWFLSa1xFZld_L2WxQ-x4_R4Came3bjtbf81P8-_VQhupFcNNsK-Oy4H0k1VC3m9bptx7sJ3Ir5Z2AnFXM/s640/Shachzabelbuch+413_203r.jpg" width="504" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="justify"><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Nuorella miehellä on vaaleanruskea tunika tai mekko, jonka pääntiessä on kolme nappia. Tulkintani mukaan sen alla on korkeakauluksinen tummanuskea doubletti, 1467. <i>A young man wearing a light brown tunic or gown that closes with three buttons at the front. My interpretation is, that he is wearing a high collared dark brown doublet underneath his gown, 1467. </i>(<a href="http://digital.wlb-stuttgart.de/filegroups/konrscha_330052896/max/00000413.jpg">Schachzabelbuch</a></span><i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">,</span></i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> Württembergische Landesbibliotek, Stuttgart,</span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> </span></i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Cod.poet.et.phil.fol.2. [413], 203.r</span>)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZL1WYyq_bv0CzEupfSX8bLjATuYAx8MicOVif7lYq7Y8qHMO9m_G5zttuFcNTVmyc2x6STgIOFwMEq7AUE9l1dV9daNLUcS8wQGLH_8t91ud6-YmLrB29vUD9cy5FlC0hp1IKh70jKcE/s1600/Blue+gown+alternative+cut+for+the+15th+c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZL1WYyq_bv0CzEupfSX8bLjATuYAx8MicOVif7lYq7Y8qHMO9m_G5zttuFcNTVmyc2x6STgIOFwMEq7AUE9l1dV9daNLUcS8wQGLH_8t91ud6-YmLrB29vUD9cy5FlC0hp1IKh70jKcE/s640/Blue+gown+alternative+cut+for+the+15th+c.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">1400-luvun mekon voisi leikata myös tähän tapaan esimerkiksi neljänä kappaleena (kaksi etu- ja kaksi takakappaletta. Vaihtoehtoisten saumakohtien sijoittelu on merkitty katkoviivalla: 1) neljänä kokonaisena kappaleena tai 1) kainalosta helmaan, 2) lantiolta helmaan. <i>The 15th century style could be cut in this manner (with two fron pieces and two back pieces). Alternative piecening lines are suggested by the dotted lines: 1) from the armpit to the hem, 2) from approximately hip-level to hem. </i></span></td></tr>
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<h3 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Lopuksi</span><i><span style="font-size: large;"> </span></i></span></span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Conclusions </i></span></span></span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Valistunut
arvaukseni on, että mekon k<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">aavoitusta</span> on mahdollista hyödyntää
1100-luvulta eteenpäin ainakin 1400-luvu<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">n puoliväliin asti - riippuen siitä m<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">inkälaise<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">t hihat siihen yhdistää</span></span></span>. Kuitenkin täytyy sanoa, että jollain tavalla <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">sinisen</span> mekon ulkoasu
on mielestäni yhteneväisempi niiden kuvalähteiden kanssa, jotka
ajoittuvat 1300-luvun toiselta neljännekseltä <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">1400</span>-luvun kolmannelle
neljännekselle - riippuen siitä mitä muuta <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">sen</span> kanssa pidetään. (Ja toki Herjolfsnesin löytöihin perustuva hiha ajoittaa sen entistä selkeämmin tälle aikavälille.)
Erilliset hoset sopivat hyvin 1300-luvun lookiin, mutta 14<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">60-luvun</span> elävöittämiseen suosittelisin mieluummin yhteenkuroutuneita tai ainakin korkeammalle leikattuja housusukkia, jotka kiinnitetään pauloilla mekon alla olevaan istuvaan
doublettiin. </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Joka
tapauksessa kyseessä on monikäyttöinen, mukava ja käytännöllinen mekko,
jonka teko ei vaadi suuresti räätälintaitoja ja tyydyttää pikaisen
tarpeen luoda jotain uutta ja hienoa!<i> </i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>My
best guess is, that this sort of cut and decoration is plausible from
the 12th to the <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">mid</span> of the 15th century - depending on the cut of the sleeves. Yet, I must say that
somehow the look and feel of the garment does give it a more generally
2nd quarter of the 14th to 3rd quarter of the 15th century look<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> - </span>(once again)<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"> - </span></span>depending on what else is worn with it. (A<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">nd of course the Herjol<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">fsnes -type cut of the sleeve <span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">puts it rather firmly to this gategory.</span></span></span>) The split hose is fine for the
14th century, but if you want to depict a 1460's man, I think I would consider wearing a joined or at least a more highly cut house attached to a doublet underneath the gown. </i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>All in all, it's a multipurpose, comfortable and functional gown, that doesen't require a lot of skill in medieval tailoring. The extra perk is, that it will give a quick fix for anyone looking for to satisfying the need to create something new and fancy! </i></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> </i> </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Kirjallisuus / Litterature</span></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />Else Østergårg, 2009. <i>Woven into the Earth. Textiles from Norse Greenland. </i>Aarhus University Press. Aarhus.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lilli Franse, Anna Nørgaard and Else </span><span style="font-size: small;">Østergårg,2011. <i>Medieval Garments Reconstructed. Norse Clothing Patterns. </i>Aarhus Univeristy Press. Aarhus.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sarah Thursfiel, 2015. <i>The Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Common Garments 1100 - 1480</i>. 2nd Edition - Revised and Expanded. The Crowood Press. Wiltshire.</span></span></span></div>
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Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-23990174052730865142016-08-21T23:50:00.000-07:002016-08-22T10:11:54.885-07:00<h2 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">Keskiaikaisen työmiehen mekko</span></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">A gown for a medieval working man</span></span></span></h2>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Swg_dECdQgHE7l0o9j7zsca5bz6Van5P-qUFcO1Ro0s06PwsHCj0COpaqsOsjUWrKPcmkQ-L_LKiEf3a8pLHoL7CmAx3LRBQHFY5lvNuIqjgR3ed0boriBpYL5k0ObANFFNM7FEivys/s1600/AriL_sininenmekko_kolmenelj%25C3%25A4sosasivu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9Swg_dECdQgHE7l0o9j7zsca5bz6Van5P-qUFcO1Ro0s06PwsHCj0COpaqsOsjUWrKPcmkQ-L_LKiEf3a8pLHoL7CmAx3LRBQHFY5lvNuIqjgR3ed0boriBpYL5k0ObANFFNM7FEivys/s400/AriL_sininenmekko_kolmenelj%25C3%25A4sosasivu.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Hämeen linnalla. <i>At Häme Castle, Finland</i>. ©<i> </i>Ari Laakso</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Muutama päivä ennen Hämeen keskiaikamarkkinoita sain päähäni tehdä Mikkelle uuden mekon vuosipäivälahjaksi. Varastossakin oli valmiiksi projektiin sopivaa paksua huovutettua vaalenasinistä villapalttinaa. Koska aktiivista ompeluaikaa oli vain kolme puolikasta päivää, piti mekon olla rakenteellisesti yksinkertainen ja tietysti käytössä mahdollisimman mukava, jotta erilaiset aktiviteetit, kuten jousiammunta ja käsityöt sujuisivat sen kanssa. </span></span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Oman haasteensa toi myös se seikka, että en pääsisi sovittamaan mekkoa, vaan se olisi tehtävä salassa ja sovittamatta. Onneksi olimme kuitenkin tehneet ilmastointiteipistä omatekoiset sovitusnuket, joten mekkoa oli mahdollista sovittaa ainakin nuken päälle...</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>A few days before the medieval market at Häme Castle I got the idea of making a new gown for Mikke, which would also be a surprise anniversary gift. As it happened, I already had some suitable plain woven and heavily fulled light blue wool in my stash. Because I only had three half-days</i> to se<i>w, I decided that the gown should have a very simple structure and be of course comfortable and practical to use while doing several activities, like archery and diffrent handicrafts. </i></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Another challenge was the fact that I could not try it on during the process because it was going to be a surprise. Luckily enough, we have made duct-tape dummies of each other, so I could at least try it on for the dummy, if not for the man.... </i></span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvm1pSQV1DRILOdWOItaH_ehV85NA3szlAb5ZeulUp86-hzAZqhB5LqPahVgDGEC007m7Zx1euBkMZFk5td68ofddbHSD9czbOM1OEM0d91XGvc5nrkkQOu7c8cl6IzJ2sQ7ArsG7Z7Iw/s1600/AriL_sininenmekko_takaprofiili.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvm1pSQV1DRILOdWOItaH_ehV85NA3szlAb5ZeulUp86-hzAZqhB5LqPahVgDGEC007m7Zx1euBkMZFk5td68ofddbHSD9czbOM1OEM0d91XGvc5nrkkQOu7c8cl6IzJ2sQ7ArsG7Z7Iw/s400/AriL_sininenmekko_takaprofiili.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: © Ari Laakso</td></tr>
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</i></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Arkeologiset esikuvat</span></span></i></span></span></div>
<h4 style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Archeological examples</i> </span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mekon rakenteellinen esikuva löytyi Grönlannin Herjolfsnesin löytöjen Ia -tyypiksi jaotelluista löydöistä. Näihin kuuluvat mm. Museo No. D5674 (Nørlund No. 33), D5677 (Nørlund No. 34), D10578 (Nørlund No. 35) ja D10579 (Nørlund No. 37). Tyypin löytöjä ei valitettavasti ole radiohiiliajoitettu. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Löytöryhmän vaatekappaleissa on hyvin yksinkertainen leikkaus: etu- ja takakappale muodostuvat suorakaiteista (jotka tosin osassa ovat hieman alaviistoon leveneviä). Sivupaneeleissa tai -kiiloissa on on keskellä suoraa langansuuntaa seuraava rakenteellinen- tai valesauma. Karkeasti ottaen idea on, että sivupaneelien vinoon leikatut reunat kiinnittyvät etu- ja takakappaleen suoraa langansuuntaa seuraavaan reunaan. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tämä on tyypillinen, elegantti ja käytännöllinen ratkaisu, jota toistuu kutakuinkin kaikissa Grönlannin mekoissa. Ratkaisu on elegantti, koska sen ansiosta vaatteen helma poimuttuu kauniisti. Käytännöllinen se on siksi, että, se ehkäisee eri langansuuntia kulkevista paloista yhdisteltyä saumaa venymästä epätasaisesti. </span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Tämän tyypin Ia mekoissa ei kuitenkaan ole kolmionmuotoista etu- ja takakiilaa.</span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol33.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol33.gif" height="331" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Herjolfsnes No. 33, 34. http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol33.html </td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The starting point for the cut of the gown came from the Greenland's Herjolfsnes finds typed Ia. The category includes the finds with Museum No. D5674 (N</i></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>ørlund No. 33), D5677 (Nørlund No. 34), D10578 (Nørlund No. 35) and D10579 (Nørlund No. 37). Unfortunately, these garments have not been radiocarbondated. </i></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The garments in this group have a very simple cut: a rectangular front and back piece. The side panels have a constructive or a false seam in the middle running along the straight of grain. The diagonally cut side panels are attached to the sides of the back and front piece that are cut more or less along the straight of grain. </i></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>This is a typical, elegant and a practical solution, that can be seen more or less in all the finds from the area. It's elegant, because it allows for the fabric to hang in beautiful folds and practical, because it prevents the seams from streching unevenly. </i></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Unlike many of the other garments from these finds, this type does not have triangular centre back and front gores.</i></span></span> </i></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><br /></i></span></span></span>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/%7Emarc-carlson/cloth/herjol37.gif" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol37.gif" height="293" width="320" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Herjolfsnes No. 37 http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol37.html</span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Vaatteen istuvuus perustuu lähinnä olkasaumojen viistoon leikkaukseen ja hihojen istutukseen, sillä se laskeutuu vapaasti rinnan korkeudelta kohti helmaa. Ajan säästämiseksi hyödynsin hihoissa aiemmin tehdyn Grönlannin mekon hihan kaavaa, enkä jakanut niitä kahteen kappaleeseen, kuten löydössä D5674. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The fit of the garment is mainly concerned with the cut of the shoulder seams and the fitting of the sleeves, since the dress itself flares freely from the chest level to the hem. In order to save precious time and effort I used an old sleeve pattern from an old more fitted Herjolfsnes project, and did not piece them into front and back pieces as is the case with the original D5674. </i></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrVnIzHEtCHh6XNahQD8Yh95noLukQkd406X8mQzX-K8NnRhiOdimh2iNRCn4H_elwlSdsg4fJx0AOEzEEowQf4En2jQXJdhNoFzyi_xlVToXfmzEwpFnadYf7G-bJmdkHJnxg4WtQPdU/s1600/Working+gown_hiha+nurja.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrVnIzHEtCHh6XNahQD8Yh95noLukQkd406X8mQzX-K8NnRhiOdimh2iNRCn4H_elwlSdsg4fJx0AOEzEEowQf4En2jQXJdhNoFzyi_xlVToXfmzEwpFnadYf7G-bJmdkHJnxg4WtQPdU/s400/Working+gown_hiha+nurja.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Hihan takakiila. Nurja puoli. <i>The positioning of the back gore from the inside. </i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Saumat ja ompeleet </span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>Seams and stitches </i></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mekon saumojen ompeluun on käytetty indigolla vaalean siniseksi värjättyä ohutta villalankaa. Kiinnittävät saumat on ommeltu etupistolla, prässätty yhdelle puolelle ja huoliteltu luotospistoilla. Poikkeuksena olkasaumat, jotka on ommeltu takapistolla, prässätty auki ja huoliteltu luotospistoilla. En käyttänyt yhdistävissä saumoissa täytelankaa, sillä hyvin huovutettu kangas ei rispaannu helposti.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The gown was sewn with a thin wool thread dyed to a matching light blue shade with indigo. The seams are sewn with running stitch and felled to one side. The shoulder seams are an exception: they were sewn with back-stitch, pressed open and hemmed down to either side. I did not use a filler thred on any of these adjoining seams, since the fabric is quite heavily fulled and does not fray easily.</i> </span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: large;">Viimeistely </span></span></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>The finishing touches </i></span><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></span></span></span></h4>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol60.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol60.gif" height="245" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">No. D10591 (Herjolfsnes No. 60) http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/herjol60.gif</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Mekon
pääntien viimeistelyssä poikkesin jonkin verran Ia -tyypin löydöistä, sillä
sovelsin pääntiehen Ie -tyypin löytöä D10591 (Nørlund No. 60) eli
pienensin pääntietä ja lisäsin siihen napituksen pukeutumista
helpottamaan. Omassa versiossani tosin on vain kolme nappia.
Hihojen takasaumoissa on myös pienet halkiot, jotka suljetaan yhdellä
napilla.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The
finish of the neckline of the garment deviates a bit from the type Ia finds, since I
adjusted the neck opening according to a type Ie find D10591 (Nørlund
No. 60): I made the neckline smaller and higher, and added three buttons
to make it easier to pull it over the head. The sleeves have small
slits at the back seam and they close with a single button.</i></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mhGbGxNrdVIkBR0wIAB15GIIvjOR2NbWI-XbaSEVQe_6vJi_UyMkBct1JmNjx_fNA52FHE8SI24TbbTDKNVWG5YVw5oURXOYctbUB9e72gLYqZfcrtkochiyiP0xkTu5lBgTW21-4Ds/s1600/Working+gown_l%25C3%25A4vet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mhGbGxNrdVIkBR0wIAB15GIIvjOR2NbWI-XbaSEVQe_6vJi_UyMkBct1JmNjx_fNA52FHE8SI24TbbTDKNVWG5YVw5oURXOYctbUB9e72gLYqZfcrtkochiyiP0xkTu5lBgTW21-4Ds/s400/Working+gown_l%25C3%25A4vet.jpg" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Kerrankin onnistuneet napinlävet! <i>At last some buttonholes that are worth showing!</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Pääntie on käännetty pellavaisella vinonauhalla ja ommeltu vaaleansinisellä pellavalangalla...</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The neckline is turned with a bias cut linen strip and sew with matching pale blue linen thread...</i></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhybJkqEpeR5n9sM_osMDFj0X2DynhlecjXCUQj6GWrVnVk-9Hh5AIjy_0Zw9AP_RoqkL53Y7xPbIamwnvwuGZJWFG3LXwGR_FaSsFNga0LCjzJC5Wl2-Thx2OW3WyC_-6LqWZBHjyXq3w/s1600/Working+gown_p%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4ntie+nurja.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhybJkqEpeR5n9sM_osMDFj0X2DynhlecjXCUQj6GWrVnVk-9Hh5AIjy_0Zw9AP_RoqkL53Y7xPbIamwnvwuGZJWFG3LXwGR_FaSsFNga0LCjzJC5Wl2-Thx2OW3WyC_-6LqWZBHjyXq3w/s400/Working+gown_p%25C3%25A4%25C3%25A4ntie+nurja.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">...kuten myös hihat. Ennen hihansuiden huolittelua minun oli pakko luopua salailusta ja sovittaa vaatetta sen tulevalle omistajalle, sillä pelkäsin leikanneeni ne liian lyhiksi. Ilman kanttinauhaa ne tosiaan olisivat jääneet n. 1 - 2 cm vajaiksi. Tämä kikka kuitenkin pelasti päivän! Kalvosimen reunassa hädin tuskin näkyvät mini-pistot on tehty pellavalangalla.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>... as are the sleeves. Before finnishing the cuffs I just had to break the secrecy and try it on properly, since I was afride I had cut the sleeves just a tad too short. Without the bias strip they would indeed have been just 1 - 2 cm too short. Luckily, I still had enough biascut linen and it saved the day! The tiny-tiny stab-stitches are made with linen thread. </i> </span></span></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQFSCtDxGpzbfdBO8X0YKstObDAhHHP_3QIpCyfzAgQgRSRQmQxDivcqb5zXnNj_QtUL_u_d-0IBGwq5FQQ2UcESbltSezq-AeL5G2Y0L3jRDaYrEgivOgcByg62qNpNs3AsQ4vNPi7b0/s1600/Working+gown_hihansuu.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQFSCtDxGpzbfdBO8X0YKstObDAhHHP_3QIpCyfzAgQgRSRQmQxDivcqb5zXnNj_QtUL_u_d-0IBGwq5FQQ2UcESbltSezq-AeL5G2Y0L3jRDaYrEgivOgcByg62qNpNs3AsQ4vNPi7b0/s400/Working+gown_hihansuu.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Hihansuu. Pellavaisen vinonauhan leveys on 15 mm. <i>The cuff. The width of the bias cut linen tape is 15 mm.</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Valmis projekti on iloinen asia!</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><i>The joy of finnishing a project!</i></span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhab6JmyzJBL136e5TX5silI1IzdRIq2otsb_rHRUCkkQj5ugiksi6P_9MkD_n6hUsiZYvw09dXx8ako7TIBKNKyIZD3Izf5qj14eOgR8PhWIYGSXVevuPsLFu8R6vfZ20kIdt_-6sA0/s1600/AriL_MjaEH%25C3%25A4me2016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHhab6JmyzJBL136e5TX5silI1IzdRIq2otsb_rHRUCkkQj5ugiksi6P_9MkD_n6hUsiZYvw09dXx8ako7TIBKNKyIZD3Izf5qj14eOgR8PhWIYGSXVevuPsLFu8R6vfZ20kIdt_-6sA0/s640/AriL_MjaEH%25C3%25A4me2016.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Hämeessä on aina kivaa! <i>We always have a good time at Hämeenlinna!</i> Photo: © Ari Laakso</span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;">Kirjallisuus / Litterature</span></b><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br />Else Østergårg, 2009. <i>Woven into the Earth. Textiles from Norse Greenland. </i>Aarhus University Press. Aarhus.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lilli Franse, Anna Nørgaard and Else </span><span style="font-size: small;">Østergårg,2011. <i>Medieval Garments Reconstructed. Norse Clothing Patterns. </i>Aarhus Univeristy Press. Aarhus.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sarah Thursfiel, 2015. <i>The Medieval Tailor's Assistant. Common Garments 1100 - 1480</i>. 2nd Edition - Revised and Expanded. The Crowood Press. Wiltshire.</span></span></div>
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Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8735720481905429300.post-36196093137144465302015-11-24T05:03:00.001-08:002016-01-11T07:51:50.516-08:00<h2>
Herjolfsnes Challenge </h2>
<h3>
Herjofsnes No. 63, Vol. 1</h3>
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Olen päättänyt ottaa osaa Neulakon pitäjän, Elinan luomaan Facebook-haasteeseen. Sen tarkoituksena on valmistaa jokin Grönlannin keskiaikaisiin löytöihin perustuva vaate. Valitsin 1300-luvun lopulle ja 1400-luvun alulle ajoitetun napitetut miehen takin. Alkuperäinen takki on säilynyt kohtalaisen hyvin. Se on valmistettu 2/2 villatoimikkaasta. Alkuperäinen väri on ollut todennäköisesti musta, mutta monen muun maalöytötekstiilin tapaan sen nykyinen väri on ruskea. </div>
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<i>I decided to take part in in a Facebook challenge, created by Elina from </i>Neulakko. <i>The idea is to make a garment that's based on the medieval garments from Greenland. I chose to to make the man's buttoned coat, that's dated to the end of 14th and the beginning of 15th century. It's made of 2/2 twill. The original colour was propably black(ish), but like many archeological tekxtile finds, it's has turned brown.</i></div>
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Tekemäni takki ei ole suora kopio alkuperäisestä: työn alla oleva takki perustuu <i>Medieval Garments Reconstructed</i>in kaavaan M-kokoon, joten siitä tulee hieman suurempi kuin alkuperäisestä (alkuperäisen mitat löytyvät S-koosta). Olen myös lisännyt kokonaispituutta muutamalla sentillä ja pidentänyt hihaan, sillä takin saaja on yli 180 senttinen. Myös väri vaihtuu, sillä tästä tulee vihreä.</div>
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<i>The coat I am making is not an exact copy or reconstruction of the original: it is based on the medium size pattern in </i>Medieval Garments Reconstructed<i>, so it will be slightly larger than the original (the original measurments are used for the S-size pattern). I have also lenghtened the lenght from shoulder to hem as well as the length of the sleeves, since the wearer is over 180 cm tall. Also, the colour will be different, because mine will be made of green wool.</i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDVZBbj6hkyudnYF0JevGNpnSVT0q88UbGEbHQrb0awORDj0zRl03hAcX4gQ7du2pXfSiQAlR613wWOPEJvJebh2hOW6tyo-rzxHbtNC57GdWvQR4olYAIB6pf8Sa1Cpd5y0cNWwsOIQg/s1600/Kirjat+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDVZBbj6hkyudnYF0JevGNpnSVT0q88UbGEbHQrb0awORDj0zRl03hAcX4gQ7du2pXfSiQAlR613wWOPEJvJebh2hOW6tyo-rzxHbtNC57GdWvQR4olYAIB6pf8Sa1Cpd5y0cNWwsOIQg/s400/Kirjat+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Herjolfsnes D10594 tai No. 63. <i>Herjolfsnes D10594 or No. 63.</i></td></tr>
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Aion myös lisätä takkiin vuorin, jota alkuperäisessä ei ilmeisesti ollut. Tässä tapauksessa vuori on kuitenkin tarpeellinen, sillä takin on tarkoitus palvella talvitakkina. Postilakon seurauksena joudun kuitenkin odottelemaan vihreää päällikangastani vielä jonkin aikaa. Onneksi vuorikangas löytyy jo omasta takaa, joten ompelun voi aloittaa siitä!</div>
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<i>I will also add a lining, although apparently the original wasn't lined. In this case the lining is necessary, since it's supposed to serve as a winter coat. Beacause of the postal strike here in Finland I will have to wait for the green wool a bit longer. Luckily, the lining fabric is from my own stash, so I can start to sew it while I wait for the strike to end. </i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz122DIpXV1NsB3c2y8xS_MA6hXvsnv0TvmH2MZ8MH9Z5L53j5f8uGMOFTJQcIJFdYx516Z5iZDpIfV3K84LhaQs1F_F5PpnPLVTCbafFIhBrVdx6n1aPk13ZSNYPVmd3U_xAe7PPMTps/s1600/Kangas+l%25C3%25A4hikuva.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz122DIpXV1NsB3c2y8xS_MA6hXvsnv0TvmH2MZ8MH9Z5L53j5f8uGMOFTJQcIJFdYx516Z5iZDpIfV3K84LhaQs1F_F5PpnPLVTCbafFIhBrVdx6n1aPk13ZSNYPVmd3U_xAe7PPMTps/s400/Kangas+l%25C3%25A4hikuva.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vuorikangas on 100% villatoimikasta, jonka kude ja loimi ovat eriväriset. <i>The lining fabric is 100% wool twill. Here you can see the different colours of the warp and weft.</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<b>Projektin lähteet / Sourcer for the project:</b></div>
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Lilli Fransen, Anna Norgaard and ElseOstergård, 2011. <i>Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns. </i>Aarhus University Press. Aarhus.</div>
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Else Ostergård, 2009 (2004). <i>Woven into the Earth: Textiles from Norse Greenland.</i> 2nd edition. Aarhus University Press. Aarhus.</div>
<br />Elinahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14081403792076500767noreply@blogger.com0